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Routes in The East End

Barn Dance S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barnie's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dead Dog Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Lane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow Left AKA Pietro Loves Iris S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prow Right AKA Dead Dog Arete AKA Gene Machine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roof Burner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunburst S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thief of Wives V7 7A+ PG13
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Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Jeremy Mariette
Page Views: 1,580 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jonathan Williams on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

This is the lone boulder problem at Red Wing, and it's a doozy! Start on a small left hand crimp and an excellent two finger pocket for your right hand. A thin and technical start leads into slopey sidepulls and a slap to the arete. Body tension and a cool head are key through the high crux, crimps and sidepulls to the top. A slip will lead to a long ride to the ground!

This climb is an eliminate. None of the jugs or corner are on for your hands until above the "triangle" of the corner 10-12 feet up. What feet are "on" aren't necessarily clear. I was able to do it using just dishes/smears/heel hooking for feet, although you'll be desperate to keep your feet off the jugs at the crux! Remember, the only person you have to answer to is yourself (and your friends). :)

Bolts were added after the first ascent; I'm not certain who did, and suspect that it was without the consent of the first ascentionist, though I don't know for certain. Nonetheless, this is a boulder problem, not a sport route.

Protection

There are pointed rocks that scatter the otherwise flat landing. Two-three pads and a spotter are key.

Photos

boulder problems with bolts? Jul 1, 2007
Jeff Kolehmainen
Eagan, MN
Jeff Kolehmainen   Eagan, MN
FA- Jeremy Mariette May 7, 2008
Glenn Burns
St. Paul, MN
Glenn Burns   St. Paul, MN
thanks for the FA info jeff, can you also give a description. i can reassign the route to either you or jeremy

-=glenn=- May 20, 2008
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  V6 PG13
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
  V6 PG13
Unclear exactly what the "rules" on this v7 are, after the "triangle on the arete" (which demarks the point at which the arete can be used). I've heard that you are supposed to stay left on the face all the way to the lip. I think that this may be v7. Otherwise, using the arete to climb to the top comes in closer to Minnesota v5/V6.

Jonathan Jun 23, 2008
Ya, it's an eliminate... Climb it however you want I guess.. Supposedly some French dude bolted it years back and never got the "red point." Jul 13, 2008

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