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Routes in The East End

Barn Dance S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barnie's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dead Dog Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Lane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow Left AKA Pietro Loves Iris S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prow Right AKA Dead Dog Arete AKA Gene Machine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roof Burner S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunburst S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thief of Wives V7 7A+ PG13
Type: Trad
FA: (FFA) Jim Craighead and Mark Wehde, 1987
Page Views: 1,139 total · 8/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

The route ascends a crack inside the large corner to the right of Roof Burner. Go up the initial large steps and commit to an awkward bulging hand crack (5.10a). Above the bulge the route eases off to 5.7-8. The rock is solid throughout the crux but becomes rotten higher up and feels like climbing bookshelves in a library (belayers beware). It is also difficult to place any reliable pro in the upper section. The best way to finish the route is to continue up the corner until it is possible to traverse diagonally left onto solid rock and clip the anchors for Roof Burner.

The moves through the crux are interesting and fun and it would be a great climb if it wasn't for the loose rock above.

Protection

Medium nuts. Cam sizes BD #.75-3 or equivalent.

Photos

Eric Swanson
Plymouth
Eric Swanson   Plymouth
Did this route earlier in the summer. Definitely goes 10a/b on gear. The crux is the bottom 15 feet, so if you make it to the rotten rock, you are good. Nov 6, 2011

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