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Routes in The East End

Barn Dance S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barnie's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dead Dog Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Lane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow Left AKA Pietro Loves Iris S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prow Right AKA Dead Dog Arete AKA Gene Machine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roof Burner S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunburst S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thief of Wives V6 7A PG13
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Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Page Views: 5,187 total · 34/month
Shared By: Darin Limvere on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Roof Burner is a great route for the grade at the bluff. Not very technical but quite sustained and pumpy. Climb up the slab to the right and traverse left to the first bolt. From there move left through the first roof. Climb up and a bit right on increasingly pumpy holds. At the second roof, traverse right across it's lower lip to a bolt above. Pull the second roof and straight to the chains from there. There aren't really any good rests on this route. A large spray painted area is at the base of this climb. Just around the corner from the "Winter Wall" easily recognized by the two roofs next to a left facing corner.

Protection

bolts, bring a shoulder sling for the first bolt

Photos

Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11-
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11-
The wandering nature of this climb makes it long and pumpy. Bring a long sling for the bolt under the roof to reduce drag. Jun 1, 2007
ferrells  
 
The easiest roofy route at Red Wing, and one of the best routes. The character changes a couple of times, and the rock is good. Oct 25, 2007
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11
goes on gear. small nuts. singles of blue, yellow, orange TCUs; singles of #2,3 camalots. three to four 24" runners. Oct 25, 2008
The route description doesn't agree with my recollection of this climb. I believe the climb goes to the right of the bolt line, directly over the first roof. It is significantly harder this way, I believe its 5.11 rating is correct. Climbed as described, it seems more an alternative finish to Barn Dance and definitely no harder than 5.9. May 2, 2010
Evan Johnson
Minneapolis, MN
 
Evan Johnson   Minneapolis, MN
 
Q1: What is the bolt off to the right of the bolt line for? There would be some crazy rope drag if you were to clip it along with any of the others to the left. It appears to be by itself.

Q2: Is the jug on the left side of the first roof off route? Haven't seen any responses to Mark Wehde's comment. Jul 11, 2011
Re: Mark Wehde's comment, the route did historically go right at the first roof. The crack above & left of the first roof was off route. A few years back the key hold on the face above the roof broke making the move over the roof, not using the crack, harder than before ... Probably 5.12 something. The route also historically used the bolt out right rather than the bolt(s) on the left, which were added later. The right route surmounts a second bulge and is harder than the left variation. Aug 27, 2011
Ted Kryzer
Rochester, MN
  5.11-
Ted Kryzer   Rochester, MN
  5.11-
To sum it up, over hanging 5.10 climbing to make it 5.11. A must do. Sep 19, 2012
Anthony Miklas
Phoenix , Arizona
  5.11a
Anthony Miklas   Phoenix , Arizona
  5.11a
Super fun lead. Not a challenging 5.11, but fun nonetheless. Sep 9, 2015
When your at the chains and pumped there are plenty of good holds to the left to hold yourself there as you clip in. Aug 1, 2016
Kit Kercheval
Yangshuo
Kit Kercheval   Yangshuo
I found two very good rests on this route and a mediocre knee bar on the first roof. Jun 28, 2018

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