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Routes in The East End

Barn Dance S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barnie's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dead Dog Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Lane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow Left AKA Pietro Loves Iris S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prow Right AKA Dead Dog Arete AKA Gene Machine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roof Burner S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunburst S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thief of Wives V7 7A+ PG13
Type: Sport
FA: Jim Craighead (TR) 1987
Page Views: 1,474 total, 11/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

A somewhat unusual climb for Red Wing. Pockety, technical and on smooth solid rock. Fine route at its grade. Reminiscent of sport climbing in white limestone.

Follow the bolt line and stay off the roof holds on the right.

Please email me if you have any info regarding bolting and first free ascent of this route.

Protection

4 bolts, rap anchors.

Photos

Gavin Purcell
Minneapolis, MN
 
Gavin Purcell   Minneapolis, MN
 
This is a surprisingly fun route with a couple ways to climb. The most natural way is to simply follow the bolt line and use any holds within reach. This way would be about 5.11a. The get to most out of the route, stick to the narrow face between the buttress and the large flake at the bottom and avoid the roof holds to the right. This way would be about 5.11c and more sustained. I think the rating is ultimately determined by whether or not the roof holds are used. Sep 7, 2017
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11a
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11a
easier for those with a long reach. Oct 25, 2008
Technically, the 5.11a rating (a bit contrived) calls for climbing between (and not using) the two cracks. Sep 19, 2007
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  5.11a
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  5.11a
Contrived but if you follow Adam's advice it's stellar, a lot of fun and tough to onsight. Jun 1, 2007
Adam Therneau
  5.11a
Adam Therneau  
  5.11a
This route climbs much better than it looks. Though a little contrived, sticking to the face at the start and going left after the big hole at the second bolt makes this route more like 11c and superb. Nov 15, 2006