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Routes in The East End

Barn Dance S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barnie's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dead Dog Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Lane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow Left AKA Pietro Loves Iris S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prow Right AKA Dead Dog Arete AKA Gene Machine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roof Burner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunburst S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thief of Wives V7 7A+ PG13
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Type: Sport
FA: Jim Craighead (TR) 1987
Page Views: 1,571 total · 10/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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A somewhat unusual climb for Red Wing. Pockety, technical and on smooth solid rock. Fine route at its grade. Reminiscent of sport climbing in white limestone.

Follow the bolt line and stay off the roof holds on the right.

Please email me if you have any info regarding bolting and first free ascent of this route.


4 bolts, rap anchors.


Adam Therneau
Adam Therneau  
This route climbs much better than it looks. Though a little contrived, sticking to the face at the start and going left after the big hole at the second bolt makes this route more like 11c and superb. Nov 15, 2006
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Contrived but if you follow Adam's advice it's stellar, a lot of fun and tough to onsight. Jun 1, 2007
Technically, the 5.11a rating (a bit contrived) calls for climbing between (and not using) the two cracks. Sep 19, 2007
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
easier for those with a long reach. Oct 25, 2008
Gavin Purcell
Minneapolis, MN
Gavin Purcell   Minneapolis, MN
A surprisingly fun route with a couple ways to climb. The most natural way is to simply follow the bolt line and use any holds within reach. This way would be about 5.11a. The get to most out of the route, stick to the narrow face between the buttress and the large flake at the bottom and avoid the roof holds to the right. This way would be about 5.11c and more sustained. I think the rating is ultimately determined by whether or not the roof holds are used. Sep 7, 2017
Buck Rio   MN
In the mid 90's I was belaying a friend on this climb when we started getting pelted with rocks from on top of the bluff. Followed by a 90 pound dog that thought he should retrieve them. The dog died after about thirty minutes, and everyone there was pretty shaken up. Ironic that the name of the climb is "Dead Dog" face. true story. Apr 2, 2018

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