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Routes in The Loaf

Lose Yer Stance, Shitcher Pants S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sweet Surprise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wimpy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Young Monkeys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: ?? if you know let me know.
Page Views: 1,098 total, 8/month
Shared By: Dustin Wildermuth on Mar 30, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Great moderate climbing up the prow. Face climb up a seam to the 1st bolt. Continue past 2 more bolts, then left into a crack system. Follow the crack to a final headwall with a bolt to a belay ledge.

Location

Prow just right of the large crack on the left side of the formation. Walk off.

Protection

quickdraws (4 bolts) wires and small to medium cams. Bolts are Leper button heads as of 3/06.

Photos

No bees on 11.26.2017 - used bolts on top to bring up partner. easy to protect - three bolts on the front half - most difficult move is right after the first bolt. Fun route. Used a couple nuts, mid sized cams. Be careful - your rope is likely not going to allow you to belay/rappel from bolts to ground. Didn't try walking off the top but rappelled off the side into some lite bushwhacking. Nov 27, 2017
J Strong
Phoenix
J Strong   Phoenix
  • **Beware: hive of aggressive bees at the base of the climb. If you wander too far left (15 ft or so) from the base of the climb there is a large hive hidden in the rocks. The bees there are very aggressive, my group apparently got too close to the hive and they immediately began to swarm and attack.
Feb 27, 2017
Peterslug
Phoenix, AZ
 
Peterslug   Phoenix, AZ
 
According to Phoenix Rock II -
Free solo FA: Chuck Hill 1986
Bolted First Ascent: Doug Fletcher, John Mchugh 1986 Feb 10, 2014
Nate Young
Phoenix
  5.7
Nate Young   Phoenix
  5.7
Not sure why this is only getting a 2 star rating. from most of what's out there is a great climb! Very slaby and the gear is very good after you get past the bolt section. Not sure why the last bolt is up there when the route should have followed the left side crack the whole way, but whatever. There are two belay bolts on climbers left at the top, look very new. There are also belay and rap anchors on climbers right as you go follow the right facing undercling flake at the top, but I'm not sure how far the ground is and we opted for the walk off. Great route if you're around there! Oct 20, 2013