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Young Monkeys
5.7,
Trad, 120 ft (36 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 32
votes
FA: ?? if you know let me know.
Arizona
> Central Arizona
> *Phoenix Areas
> Little Granite…
> Loaf
Description
Great moderate climbing up the prow. Face climb up a seam to the 1st bolt. Continue past 2 more bolts, then left into a crack system. Follow the crack to a final headwall with a bolt to a belay ledge.
Location
Prow just right of the large crack on the left side of the formation. Walk off.
Protection
quickdraws (4 bolts) wires and small to medium cams. Bolts are Leper button heads as of 3/06.
[Hide Photo] The rope is on the route. This climb is very easy to protect because there is a series of cracks all the way up.
[Hide Photo] Two great bolts on top of this climb. While the bolts look solid, they're both on a single boulder that looked like it wasn't going anywhere but I elected to back it up with some cams in other cra…
[Hide Photo] Most of the climb protects pretty easily with nuts.
[Hide Photo] Just clipped the first bolt and diving into the meat and potatoes of the slab climbing!
[Hide Comment] Not sure why this is only getting a 2 star rating. from most of what's out there is a great climb! Very slaby and the gear is very good after you get past the bolt section. Not sure why the last bolt is up there when the route should have followed the left side crack the whole way, but whatever. There are two belay bolts on climbers left at the top, look very new. There are also belay and rap anchors on climbers right as you go follow the right facing undercling flake at the top, but I'm not sure how far the ground is and we opted for the walk off. Great route if you're around there!
Oct 20, 2013
**Beware: hive of aggressive bees at the base of the climb. If you wander too far left (15 ft or so) from the base of the climb there is a large hive hidden in the rocks. The bees there are very aggressive, my group apparently got too close to the hive and they immediately began to swarm and attack.
[Hide Comment] No bees on 11.26.2017 - used bolts on top to bring up partner. easy to protect - three bolts on the front half - most difficult move is right after the first bolt. Fun route. Used a couple nuts, mid sized cams. Be careful - your rope is likely not going to allow you to belay/rappel from bolts to ground. Didn't try walking off the top but rappelled off the side into some lite bushwhacking.
Nov 27, 2017
[Hide Comment] Fun route. Don't let the height of the first bolt intimidate you, it's easy climbing up to the bolt. After the bolts it protects well with a standard rack to 3. I greased off a foot hold above the fist bolt and took a very enjoyable fall, good times. Great route for a new trad leader, it eases considerably after the first bolt and the gear is straight forward.
Also I decided that no one on here knew what they were talking about and tried to rap down it, yeah, don't do that.
Nov 1, 2020
Avg: 2.5 from 32
votes
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Phoenix
Pittsburgh, PA
Free solo FA: Chuck Hill 1986
Bolted First Ascent: Doug Fletcher, John Mchugh 1986 Feb 10, 2014
Phoenix
- **Beware: hive of aggressive bees at the base of the climb. If you wander too far left (15 ft or so) from the base of the climb there is a large hive hidden in the rocks. The bees there are very aggressive, my group apparently got too close to the hive and they immediately began to swarm and attack.
Feb 27, 2017Scottsdale
Phoenix, AZ
Also I decided that no one on here knew what they were talking about and tried to rap down it, yeah, don't do that. Nov 1, 2020
mesa, az
San Diego, CA
Once past the second bolt climbing eases up significantly. The crack up top is friendly and protects well.
We chose to lower with a "10%long cut" 70m. Barely makes it with belayer on big boulder to the left. TIE KNOTS! Can prob be rapped with an 80m
5 star climb! Dec 1, 2020