Type: Trad, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dan Bingham, G. Parker
Page Views: 2,677 total · 17/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Mar 9, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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A nice casual outing. Not much technical climbing, but fun and the summit has a great view. The cruxes are very short and well protected, so it feels easier than the 5.9 grade. Pitch 1 gets all day shade, the rest of the route is in the sun.

P1) 5.8 150' Up the chimney. Longer and more fun than it appears. Save a #4 or #5 Camalot (new sizes) for the top.

P2) 5.5 -50' Either rap or down climb to the ledge on the south side of the formation.

P3) Class 1 50' Hike around the corner to the left until you're stopped by a short wall at the head of a gully.

P4) 5.8 50' Climb the wall (10'), set a piece for your follower, and hike down and to the right through some cacti and agave to a bolted belay. Keeping your rope out of the nasty plants may be the crux of the entire climb.

P5) 5.9- 30' Fun face climbing leads to a ledge. Belay here or suffer drag.

P6) 5.9- 150' Go up the crack with the bush and continue up 4th class to the summit.

Descent (2 ropes):
Rap 1: 50' From the summit rap to the ledge at the start of the 4th class. Walk clockwise 100'. There is a 2 chain anchor on a ledge about 50' below the summit on the west end of the rock. This anchor is visible from the summit plateau.

Rap 2: 180' CAUTION! 60m ropes do not get you to the next bolted rap station. Rap to the huge ledge 100' down, then continue down the blank face to a bush with slings.

Rap 3: 50' From the bush a short rap gets you to the bolted station.

Rap 4: 150' One more rap gets you to the ground.


Park at the Soldier Pass Trail head. Head north down the Soldier Pass jeep road. After a few minutes you'll see Forest Road 9904B on the right and Tea Pot trail on the left. Go left on Tea Pot trail. After a few more minutes look for a small side trail heading right at a group of boulders. This trail will cross a indistinct wash shortly. Go left into this wash and look for a fairly good trail heading toward the nose of Coffee Pot. When the trail gets closest to the spout, leave the trail and head toward the base of the rock. For Original Route contour right around the base of the cliff passing under the Spout Route and an ugly chimney system until you reach a large obvious gully where the cliff turns. Go up this and all the way around until you see a deep chimney/cleft in fairly clean rock. This is the start of the route.
GPS: 34,53.131 N 111,47.554 W


Nuts, 1 each to #5 or #6 Camalot (new sizes)


Zach Harrison
Zach Harrison   Flagstaff
From pitch 4 in the route description if you continue up to the left to a big ledge on the north side of the Coffee Pot there is a direct pitch to the summit that cuts out all the runout junk on the Original Route. It's a single pitch of 5.11 climbing up and out a roof near the rap station. It starts left of a short broken pillar. Pretty fun patina climbing with some awkward no holds funk. Gear is mostly bolts but bring some fingers and hand sized cams and some slings. I think the easiest way off the formation is rapping back to the south side ledge and down (up?) climbing the Original route, then rapping from the notch back to your packs. This way can be done with a single 70m. Dec 7, 2013
manuel rangel
manuel rangel   Arizona
The bush has been replaced by a bolted anchor. Bring double 60s for this one. Apr 11, 2014
Flagstaff, Arizona
PaoloQ   Flagstaff, Arizona
Chimney takes good pro. If you back clean alot all you need is 2 #4 and 1 #5 C4 for the whole chimney. Everything else will just get in your way. Last pitches are exciting but very fun. One 70m rope will suffice with a tad of down climbing out of the chimney. Feb 7, 2016