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Routes in Coffeepot Rock

Original Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
South Spout Route T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
True Grit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 630 total · 5/month
Shared By: markguycan on Nov 11, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

P1: standard munge corner 5.9 (east facing), P2: more of the same to top of pillar, P3: steep initial moves (10-) up finger cracks then easy ramp to alcove. P4: overhang OW to awkward slab/flare (11). P5: 5.10- OW to big ledge. P6: option of a couple moves (5.8) but exposed to summit knob. rap twice around to the North west- from poor anchors- good luck!

Location

Starts on east face of Coffeepot, then wraps around to the south.

Protection

doubles to #4

Photos

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Cody Ferguson
Durango, CO
 
Cody Ferguson   Durango, CO
 
Dave Spies and I did this route for the first time yesterday. A proud send and a long sought-after tick on one of Sedona's most prominent features.

Rock quality is some of the lowest in Sedona on the first two pitches (and that's saying a lot considering I'm talking about Sedona). The third and fifth pitches are cleaner and a lot of fun. The fourth (crux) pitch is awkward and tough but you have solid rock and decent protection (used a BD #5 at the initial overhang) for most of the hardest moves mixed with some dirt and choss--heads up!

Beautiful summit!!!

Beware:
-The bolts atop the fourth pitch have been chopped but there are plenty of options to build an anchor.
-There is only one good rap bolt on the summit (there is a second, but it sticks out of the drill hole about 3/4" and moves)
-The belay anchors (NW face atop Spout Route) could use an additional bomber bolt.
-The last belay station is off a bush approx. 100' off the deck and fifty feet right of the start of the climb.

Apr 11, 2010

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