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Routes in Coffeepot Rock

Original Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
South Spout Route T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
True Grit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 330 ft, 3 pitches
FA: S. Grossman, Dave Baker, Fig 1983
Page Views: 276 total, 8/month
Shared By: Zach Harrison on Mar 30, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

True Grit is a old trail established by some darn tough dudes. Any cowpoke looking to ride this bronco better saddle up tight and hold on!

P1 Start in a chimney and stem up to a slot. Rustle up the gumption to squeeze behind the chockstones. Above, things pretty lonely as you chimney far away from the nearest drink of gear. Eventually find gear out right and belay higher on a bush stance. 5.9R, 150 feet.

P2 Saunter up to the loose bandit block, mount that stallion, careful not to harm your pard, and continue up the broke down crack, two-stepping right below the nasty wide crack to a cozy ledge. 5.8R, 80 feet.

P3 Haggle up to the mighty fine finger crack dihedral. A quick dance leads to a flake roof. Take a shot of firewater and wrastle leftward though the OW layback. Take another shot of firewater and slide left out the higher roof to the purdy ledge. 5.10++, 80 feet.

From here, the trail is much tamer up to the summit, no lassoing required.

Location

It clambers up the obvious wide crack system that leads to a huge roof on the tower left of Summit Block Rock. It is visible on the approach as the 4th summit from the right. It faces roughly south. Rope down off of tree above and right of the last belay. 2X 70m will barely make it back to your friendly saloon. Unknown relic anchors were spotted for those with shorter ropes.

Protection

It wouldn't hurt to be quick on the draw with your six shooters. BD #6 shooters, that is. Saddle up with an arsenal of wide stuff, any #5,#6's or big bros you can get your paws on. Without any BD#6 or larger, we had a nice 50 foot runout on pitch 1. Don't forget singles from tips to thin hands and 2X BD #2-4. Any honcho worth his roping skills will also bring a large herd of runners, including double length.

Photos

Well, that was one long time to what was probably the second ascent.
Good job...
As I recall, the occasion for Fig and DB being up north was the last (unknown at the time) one of Baxer's Syndicato banquets... Steve, Herb North, Peter Noebels all came up from down south.

Seems like we also did something else backup in there on the same day (besides Dr Rubos). Or maybe I just went over and Steve tossed us all a rope down this climb so we had a gang on the summit. I'll have to ask him what he remembers.
I seem to recall him belaying off that scrub and belaying quite a train wreck to the top. Fuzzy daze Apr 13, 2015