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Routes in Mount Grossvogel

Berserk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Bird T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blinded Me With Science T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chaffe N' Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crazy Climber T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dr. Suess Vogel T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Killer Bees T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lazy Maritimer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lazy Rhymer T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ranger Danger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Robaxol T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Roboranger T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Roboslab TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Swain, November 1988
Page Views: 1,550 total, 11/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 14, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Roboranger starts on the right side of a big block on the northeast face of Grossvogel.

P1) Climb up the right side of the big block then traverse right across to grab the edge of the roof flake (where the block used to be). Layback up onto the roof and then continue in the crack above to a shelf system below a dihedral. Belaying here is mostly a function of rope drag.

P2) Climb the left dihedral to the top. This is the crux of the route and a bit grainy and tricky. Belay from cracks atop.

Descent: Scramble off down the slabs to the north. WARNING!!! The initial part of this descent is harder than the route you just came up! Place anchors and belay accordingly for safety!!!

Protection

Finger sized up to #4 Camalot (good for the roof move).

Photos

Alex Peterson
Kamas, Utah
  5.6
Alex Peterson   Kamas, Utah
  5.6
We did this as one pitch with a 70m (could have also done it with a 60m). Just sling the roof and you'll eliminate the rope drag. This is a good trad lead for a beginning leader. The second pitch (or upper corner) is the best part. Also we down climbed to the climbers right (south), much safer/easier than going north. Mostly shaded in the summer morning. Jun 30, 2013
Dave Kos
Temecula, CA
 
Dave Kos   Temecula, CA
 
The roof can confound some people (gotta get yer hips over the lip...) and protecting it safely without rope drag may be tricky for a brand new trad leader.

Easily done as one pitch. The 2nd "pitch" corner is pretty good and redeems what would otherwise be a "one move wonder." Apr 9, 2012
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.5
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.5
This climb is fun for a beginning leader. The overhang/block is strenuous and protects well with a hexcentric or a BD 3 or 4. The next part of the first pitch is walk up.

I think the second pitch dihedral is awesome. Great protection, fun stemming and is heady but safe for 5.5 trad. Oct 31, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
 
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
 
The roof is fun, but aside from that there is better stuff out here. Has a tendency to be busy. Jul 17, 2011
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.5
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.5
The second pitch is worth the climb (though short as well). Turning the roof is exciting for a beginning trad leader to whom I would recommend this climb. May 24, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I don't know - I enjoyed this route, but I can understand how someone might think it a waste of time. There's a lot of class 4 on the ascent. The roof was fun and the upper crack is the best part.

As for the descent, it's not so bad. Just watch yourself getting started. If you manage to fall it's only about a 5' slide to the ledge. After that it's standard class 3 to the ground. May 14, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
This route along with Dr. Suess Vogel are hardly worth the trip over. If it were me, I'd stop at the Jimmy Cliffs and actually climb something worth the time.

I did these routes while completing the Winger Guide to "favorite" routes. Uggh, what possessed them? Oct 9, 2006