Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Craig Parsley, 1973
Page Views: 3,007 total · 19/month
Shared By: tony grice on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

A super route that's not often done. Go straight up to finish. Bring the rack - all of it. The route is around the corner and right from "Mamma Woolsey" up the striking black pillar. DO IT!

Protection

Gear to 4"

Photos

Jeremy Werlin
Cedaredge, CO
  5.10b
Jeremy Werlin   Cedaredge, CO
  5.10b
An underground classic! I climb this one everytime I visit the park. Don't be intimidated, the Pillar climbs and protects nicely. I like a #5 camalot (green) for the initial slot (although it is not mandatory). Save some hand size/thin hand for the top. Dec 31, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
This thing is fantastic - truely a hidden gem right there in Hidden Valley Campground. This baby provides a bit of variety in the climbing from stemming to a small roof, maybe a hip scum in there. Super positive rock - taking excellent gear of a variety of sizes. Nuts, small brassies, and small to large cams.

Looking forward to doing it again and leading it.

Walked off the back side. From the top out go straight back then veer right, go right past a large block (or scramble down below it) down a slab and around the front of Buissonier. There may be other ways down but that one works.

Enjoy it....I did!

~Susan Mar 12, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Great route! Definitely a sleeping classic.

Expect lots of funky body English as you work your way through the various sections of this climb. I didn't find one particular area that was the crux, just lots of thought provoking moves - with a bit of a final pump at the end.

Gear was good, and always right where you need it.

I didn't do the straight-up finish (ran out of slings and didn't want the rope drag), but it looked OK and fairly protectable. The rock quality out there was somewhat dubious though....

Even without the variation finish, this climb is definitely one to tick.

Gear: Thin (I placed a large RP) to #3 Camalot. The top part, though it looks big, actually climbs more like a thin hands crack. Bring some long slings. Apr 7, 2007
Drewsky  
The 'straight up' variation at the top is rather hard to protect; I recall using a large (#13) nut because the pods didn't like cams. Certain cams might fit. This size nut usually does not make it onto my rack. Rock quality is good except for a tipsy flake at the beginning of the top section. Nov 9, 2008
Richard Shore
  5.10c
Richard Shore  
  5.10c
IMO, this is the best route in the HVCG area. Strangely, I have never seen anyone climbing it.

Didn't find a need for anything bigger than a #3, and it was used for the anchor. Small stoppers provide excellent protection in many spots. Apr 16, 2012
Simon H
Oakland, CA
  5.10
Simon H   Oakland, CA
  5.10
Make sure that you do the straight-up finish, as it certainly contains the best moves on the route, and goes at airy 5.9 with "thoughtful" pro. With the direct finish, 3 stars out of 4. Without, maybe only 1 or 2. Were the rock on this route more solid, it would be an undisputed classic.

Despite looking wide, I surprisingly ended up using nothing larger than a #.75 C4 on the route, including some C3's and RP's. Bring bigger stuff too though, as the anchor takes gear 1-4" May 3, 2012
Ryan Bracci
San Juan Capistrano, CA
 
Ryan Bracci   San Juan Capistrano, CA
 
Surprisingly good route. Fun varied climbing and most of the pro is where you need it. The proper straight-up finish is a flared crack at the top so the pro is just a bit tricky in that one section but climbing not that hard. Note, if doing the proper straight-up finish there is a block, just above the patina near the bottom of the crack, that is potentially weakening and could come down. Nov 6, 2017
Matt Hagny
  5.10b/c
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b/c
Perhaps my expectations were too high after reading all the rave reviews here, but I didn't think this was anything stellar -- I'd follow it if someone wanted to climb it, but wouldn't bother leading it again. It's tall for Jtree, which helps, and a wide variety of movement. After the 0.75 cam about 8' off the deck, the gear is lousy for about 12' and the climbing a bit tricky there on less-than-bomber rock. I did the direct finish, which did offer some nifty (and heady) moves, but again the gear is terrible there -- gear alongside the wiggly block risks ripping the block off, and all I could come up with in that shallow, flaring runnel was a hybrid cam that was a long way from bomber. The moves are insecure (probably 9+) and it would be quite a winger if the gear ripped. All this subtracts at least a star, IMO. Oct 6, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10b/c
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b/c
This route does require a surprising number of small cams -- 0.75 to zeroes, preferably doubles of all them. I used a #1 on the route, too. Anchor uses #1, 2, and 3. Take extra draws and runners too. Even tho the route is mostly straight up, there's a lot of hollows and bulges for the rope to navigate. Oct 6, 2018