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Routes in The Blob - East Face

I'm Not Afraid Anymore T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Perfidious T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2+ R
Persian Room, The TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surrealistic Pillar T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Aid, 60 ft
FA: John Wolfe & Ken Stichter, 5/70
Page Views: 1,127 total · 6/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Sep 13, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route can be found in the Vogel Guide rated 5.6 A4, the modern grade is about C2+. It is located on the east face of the Blob up on a platform to the right of Surrealistic Pillar and I'm not afarid any More (behind the campsite with the huge boulder that contains a head and rivet ladder). To gain the platform climb a tree at the base or a crack in a corner to the right of the tree. The route is a thin overhanging crack that is characterized by four fat bolts that were added for free attempts(clipping the bolts lowers the rating and reduces groundfall potenital). Climb a 5.6 ramp to the base of the crack, start with micro nuts and aliens, clipping 4 fixed heads along the way. Continue up the crack till it ends and make 2 hook moves to gain the two bolt anchor. To descend rap the route.

Protection [Suggest Change]

HB Brass oFfsets, Small aliens, hooks (1 talon, 1 grappling), fixed heads

Photos

Karen Bohl
Prescott
5.1
Karen Bohl   Prescott
5.1
Perfidous was named by my Dad, Ken Stichter. (Also the name behind "Stichter quits"). The comments on this climb indicate the first ascent is not known. Well, the first ascent was completed by my Dad while climbing with John Wolf and other legends at Joshua Tree in the late sixties, early seventies. He talks often of the naming of this climb and the many years he spent climbing in Joshua Tree with John Wolf and others. In fact, the first quide to climbing Joshua Tree has a picture of my dad climbing the first ascent of Perfidous.

Mark Stichter mnstick@aol.com Nov 24, 2004
C Miller   CA  
Apparantly this route has been led free at 5.13b. Feb 17, 2005
tony grice  
 
this is the BOMB aid training ground. plus you can jug an overhanging wall till yer fingers bleed Feb 13, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Not sure how much aid training you would get on it these days, with three bolts and five fixed copperheads (or wires?, appeared to be heads from the base), you could probably just clip all the way up only placing a piece or two.

That said, this looks like a brilliant free route and congrats to the FFA party. Oct 11, 2011
In the late nineties I pulled past the first move and climbed to the top. I thought it was about 12C, A1. I brought Charlie Barrett to it in 2004. He freed it after a few tries. He was in excellent shape and absolutely crushing everything that season. It has one really hard move to start. He felt it was mid-thirteen. Mar 1, 2018

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