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Routes in Fucoidal Quartzite

Adios Amigos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Begging For Bolts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bird shit banana split T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Knight S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Butt Ball T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cannonball S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chromosone X S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Chromosone Y S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cling or Swing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Community Effort S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cushions T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dream Realized S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drilling In The Dark S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Outhouse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Garden of Cucumbers S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gill's Grace T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperplasia S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Illusions S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Illusions Extension 1 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illusions Extension 2 S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jam Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limestone Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man and Woman S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mighty Mouse T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Statement S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mutation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nebulous Precision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pansy, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Satuday Mourning T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Super Cannon Ball S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tennis Ball S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terminalogical Inexactitude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tiny Toons T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tooth and Nail S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unkown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Earns
Page Views: 1,734 total, 12/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Feb 11, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Just right of Tiny Toons is this good sport route.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Doug Joness
logan, ut
 
Doug Joness   logan, ut
 
pretty fun climb, but the greasy feet make it much less fun. Bet it was awesome when it was first set! Aug 1, 2014
joslstap
  5.10a
joslstap  
  5.10a
This is one of my favorite climbs in the canyon (first climbed it when I was 14 or so). I don't get around to it all that often due to the grease, but IMO a must do while in the area. Mar 29, 2014
Connor England
Tooele, Utah
  5.10a/b
Connor England   Tooele, Utah
  5.10a/b
Super fun climb! Crux is definitely between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Just watch out for the hornets at the top by the chains! Ha... There were like 10 waiting to greet me. Sep 24, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Another harder variation is to continue up past the chimney anchors(mentioned in Ryan P.'s comments. NU gives this section 11a) and finish on Adios Amigos anchors. 12a/b. Aug 3, 2010
BryceS
Hyrum Ut
  5.10b
BryceS   Hyrum Ut
  5.10b
I had fun climbing Illusions There are some greasy holds. Its not the whole climb. I think its worth your time if your in the area FA: Mike Eames. Jul 22, 2010
alexa
logan
alexa   logan
In my opinion, horrible climb, every hold is greasy, and it makes the whole climb sketchy. Way better climbs at fucoidal to do. Jun 25, 2008
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
This climb has a few variations, going up to the left or right from the bolts.

For a really fun route go up to the left and through the chimney to another set of chains. It's high, but you can still top-rope or lower to the ground with a 60m rope. Probably rates a 10c or so. Oct 16, 2007
Abandoned User
  5.10b
Abandoned User  
  5.10b
Nice route. The NULC guidebook puts this at .10a but I agree that it's slightly harder just for the weird moves near the bottom (between #1 and #3) Aug 15, 2007