Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Earns
Page Views: 1,903 total · 12/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Feb 11, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


90 Opinions

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Description

Just right of Tiny Toons is this good sport route.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Abandoned User
  5.10b
Abandoned User  
  5.10b
Nice route. The NULC guidebook puts this at .10a but I agree that it's slightly harder just for the weird moves near the bottom (between #1 and #3) Aug 15, 2007
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
This climb has a few variations, going up to the left or right from the bolts.

For a really fun route go up to the left and through the chimney to another set of chains. It's high, but you can still top-rope or lower to the ground with a 60m rope. Probably rates a 10c or so. Oct 16, 2007
alexa
logan
alexa   logan
In my opinion, horrible climb, every hold is greasy, and it makes the whole climb sketchy. Way better climbs at fucoidal to do. Jun 25, 2008
BryceS
Hyrum Ut
  5.10b
BryceS   Hyrum Ut
  5.10b
I had fun climbing Illusions There are some greasy holds. Its not the whole climb. I think its worth your time if your in the area FA: Mike Eames. Jul 22, 2010
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Another harder variation is to continue up past the chimney anchors(mentioned in Ryan P.'s comments. NU gives this section 11a) and finish on Adios Amigos anchors. 12a/b. Aug 3, 2010
Connor England
Tooele, Utah
  5.10a/b
Connor England   Tooele, Utah
  5.10a/b
Super fun climb! Crux is definitely between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Just watch out for the hornets at the top by the chains! Ha... There were like 10 waiting to greet me. Sep 24, 2012
joslstap
  5.10a
joslstap  
  5.10a
This is one of my favorite climbs in the canyon (first climbed it when I was 14 or so). I don't get around to it all that often due to the grease, but IMO a must do while in the area. Mar 29, 2014
Doug Joness
logan, ut
 
Doug Joness   logan, ut
 
pretty fun climb, but the greasy feet make it much less fun. Bet it was awesome when it was first set! Aug 1, 2014