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Routes in Fucoidal Quartzite

Adios Amigos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Begging For Bolts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bird shit banana split T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Knight S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Butt Ball T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cannonball S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chromosone X S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Chromosone Y S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cling or Swing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Community Effort S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cushions T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dream Realized S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drilling In The Dark S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Outhouse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Garden of Cucumbers S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gill's Grace T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperplasia S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Illusions S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Illusions Extension 1 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illusions Extension 2 S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jam Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limestone Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man and Woman S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mighty Mouse T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Statement S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mutation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nebulous Precision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pansy, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Satuday Mourning T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Super Cannon Ball S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tennis Ball S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terminalogical Inexactitude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tiny Toons T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tooth and Nail S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unkown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Jim Sherner
Page Views: 3,959 total, 29/month
Shared By: Jimmymac222 on Oct 5, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The crux comes just after mid-way (good rest right before the crux). The real challenge of this route is the continuous nature of the climbing and the length. Make sure to take enough draws. You will need to either belay on top or take two ropes to rap. (A 60 METER IS NOT LONG ENOUGH TO LOWER). This is a great route.

Location

Follow the trail to the base and go right for about 20 feet. Look for the long line of 13 bolts that goes all the way to the top. Lies between Community Effort and Terminalogical.

Protection

Draws and two ropes

Photos

NRobl
Hyrum, UT
NRobl   Hyrum, UT
A 70m barely gets you back to the ground. I'd recommend un-clipping draws on the descent to gain a little extra length. It would be a good idea for the belayer to tie in in advance or to tie the other end of the rope as well. With 175 lbs at my end of the rope and un-clipping draws, I just barely made it down with a 70 meter. Jun 19, 2017
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.11a
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.11a
It would be good to clarify the start of this route. Crux is half-way up if starting a little to the right of the first bolt. Direct start up to 1st bolt is I'd say about 11d.

Having said that, this is one of the best (and longest) 1 pitch 11s I've ever done.Excellent! Aug 27, 2013
Very fun climb, the rock is much better than most at this crag. Watch out for bat feces in the big horizontal crack about half way up, to the left of Terminalogical Inexactitude's chains. It's pretty nasty. Jul 13, 2013
scottso
St. George, Utah
scottso   St. George, Utah
I would say that the crux is getting to the first bolt heading straight up - Not coming in from T/X. Sep 19, 2012
Courtney Pace   Sandy
Best route on the wall. Not the usual grease-fest you find on other routes here. The climb just goes and goes. Dont be deterred if you only have a 60. Just belay the second from the top and use TX's anchors and do 2 raps. It's a nice warm-up if you are heading up to the cave. Mar 3, 2012
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
13 bolts, as I remember. A 70m gets you back to the ground, or if you really want to be oldschool, you can belay up a second and walkoff to the left. Great climb. FA Jim Sherner, I believe. Aug 24, 2009
Jeremy Henderson
Tacoma, WA
Jeremy Henderson   Tacoma, WA
Fun climb, it isnt very hard just long. Just be sure to use a long rope or down climb the last 25 feet. Oh yeah and take alot of draws.. if not you will be beggin for draws at the top.. Enjoy! Jun 8, 2009
Riddler
Centerville, UT
 
Riddler   Centerville, UT
 
I felt like this route was more like a few short cruxes separated by straightforward climbing. Really fun, though. If you don't have two ropes you can use the anchors on Terminalogical Inexactitude as a second rap. May 15, 2009
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
  5.11a
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
  5.11a
This climb is great, and long. With a 70m rope both ends were barely on the ground when through the anchors. Aug 31, 2007