Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 358 total · 5/month
Shared By: BRSchneid on Oct 7, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

starts at Terminal Inexactitude and goes right up the crack

Location

the crack that goes just to the right of Terminal Inexactitude and just to the left of Nebulous Precision

Protection

Trad route, mostly hand size to finger size protection is required. not sure if chains or not, the book only says "Gear."

Photos

Brian Hestetune
Logan, UT
 
Brian Hestetune   Logan, UT
 
A single rack, with extras for an anchor and a sling for the roof, would do just fine on this climb. You may want a BD#4 or #5 to protect the crux (I used a #4 and it was 'alright'), although you may be able to push a smaller one way up in there. There's an obvious belay before walking off with a plethora of choices for gear size (0.5-3). The best crack is BD#3 sized.

This climb is 5.7 -5.9 up until the crux. Pulling over the roof is where the crux is and is some sort of .10. The crux is very committing mentally and physically and made the climb. The ledge climbing in the start is a little bleh. Oct 29, 2012
joslstap
  5.10c
joslstap  
  5.10c
I agree with the #4 being "alright" at the crux. A #5 would probably have been a lot better. Looking at the placement I felt that a swinging fall would have pulled that cam right out. Great climb, really fun once you get past the ledges. Mar 29, 2014
We added some rap chains above this route last week. Route can easily be lowered from and top roped now, avoiding the walk off. Nov 1, 2015
Mark Van Slyke
Wyoming
  5.10c
Mark Van Slyke   Wyoming
  5.10c
A #5 extended and placed deep out towards the nose of the roof protects the crux pretty well, although slightly smaller pro in the top of the vertical crack is probably also sufficient. Jun 4, 2018