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Routes in Fucoidal Quartzite

Adios Amigos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Begging For Bolts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bird shit banana split T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Knight S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Butt Ball T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cannonball S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chromosone X S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Chromosone Y S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cling or Swing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Community Effort S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cushions T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dream Realized S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drilling In The Dark S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Outhouse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Garden of Cucumbers S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gill's Grace T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperplasia S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Illusions S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Illusions Extension 1 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illusions Extension 2 S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jam Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limestone Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man and Woman S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mighty Mouse T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Statement S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mutation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nebulous Precision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pansy, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Satuday Mourning T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Super Cannon Ball S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tennis Ball S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terminalogical Inexactitude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tiny Toons T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tooth and Nail S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unkown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 996 total, 13/month
Shared By: Brian Hestetune on Oct 16, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is the furthest climb up canyon in the area. Scramble up ~30' to a belay ledge with chain anchors. The climb follows the beautiful arete nearly to the top. There are two lines from the belay, and I am not sure which is the original. Both lines converge about a 1/3 of the way up

Start Variation 1: Go right of the tree off the belay. The bolts are right above you on the vertical face. After the third bolt (if you follow the crack system), there is a runout (~15-20 ft?). There is a spot for a BD#2 cam if the runout bothers you (you can also traverse over to the arete to the nearby bolts). The next bolt is on the slabby area on the face of the arete (join up with var. 2). You have another small runout. The bolt line continues up the arete. Near the top, you will see an ancient rusty bolt on a bulge. Don't climb up to that, chain anchors are to the right.

Start Variation 2(Original?): The bolts looked older? Off the belay, go left around the tree and hop on the arete. Go straight up the arete with the same finish as described above (avoiding the 15-20ft runout with 2 more bolts).

A 60 m will get you down to the belay anchors. With a single rope you must lower to the belay anchors. DO NOT try to lower to the ground.

This is an awesome long not greasy soft 10a. The crux comes a few bolts up from the slabby runout section. Excellent views from the belay station and from the climb. I enjoyed the right start over the left start. The right is more of jug/vertical climbing, with the left being more slab. Both felt about the same difficulty.

Protection

Var 1: 9 bolts
Var 2: 11 bolts

Chain Anchors

Photos

The climb up to the belay chains/ledge is an easy solo (5.3 maybe). Did this route with a 70m rope and was able to repel from the top chains back to the ground just BARELY. Aug 28, 2016
Ryan s Nelson
Salt Lake City, Ut
  5.10a
Ryan s Nelson   Salt Lake City, Ut
  5.10a
I agree with Brian about the right start being the preferred start. As mentioned in the description a small run out at the semi-crack section of the right start is significantly decreased by clipping the bolt out to the left on a blank face (while standing in the crack). This is my favorite 10 at at the crag but is slightly tedious with the intermediate belay chains etc. Jun 1, 2013