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Routes in Great Northern Slab

Air Over Aries S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aries (aka The Lizard) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blockbuster T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Breakfast of Champions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Northern Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let's Go Bowling T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Libra Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Marginal Karma T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nick O' Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On the Verge S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pisces T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pretty Vacant S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Roger's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sickle Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sonic Reducer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strength Through Bowling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar Bear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taurus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Terminal Preppie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Voyage to the Bottom of the Verge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,945 total, 14/month
Shared By: jonah on Feb 9, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

A fun thin crack just right of Breakfast of Champions. Long pulls on little locks takes you to the top. The spooky part is stepping off the belay ledge and having to yard on the somewhat loose, hollow undercling flake. This thing is sketchy and is going to blow sometime, maybe taking out somebody down below.

Protection

Small nuts and cams. You can also TR it from the BOC anchors above.

Photos

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RafaelH
 
RafaelH  
 
The climb is the same as it was 20 years ago, don't know what loose flake is being referred to. Great climb when done from the ground. If so, extend all of the draws to the top of Roger's Corner to avoid rope drag and make it easier to pull the rope to clip. Aug 6, 2017
Eric Stern
Boulder, CO/ Tacoma Washington
 
Eric Stern   Boulder, CO/ Tacoma Washington
 
This thing is quite reachy! also I didn't see any loose flake at the beginning. I TR'ed it after climbing BOC and may have missed it, but perhaps it is gone? Aug 11, 2016
I have , and I think being at the top of p1 would be safer then being on the ground and I've seen it done that way too. Jun 29, 2014
Joe Sambataro
Seattle, WA
Joe Sambataro   Seattle, WA
It would be more continuous if linked from the second pitch of Rogers Corner, but with the loose flake, I'm guessing that would be a bad idea. Has anyone led it that way? Jun 27, 2014
Douglas T  
 
The moves on the climb are super fun. The first few moves from the anchor take you from a comfy ledge straight into just-past-vertical undercling and small finger cracks. For mere mortals such as I, rehearsing on TR is easy from the BOC anchors.

I share the concern about the undercling flake, but even more so about a big detached looking block that's at the end of the technical climbing. I certainly recommend climbing it, but probably best to play on it when nobody is below. Aug 7, 2013
exposure makes MK seem a little harder, stepping off the belay is kinda scary when doing this one for the first time. It would take a lot for the flake to blow I think, but who knows. Feb 27, 2006