Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Greg Donaldson, Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, 4/1967. FFA: Bob Crawford, Don Harder, 9/1974
Page Views: 10,828 total · 50/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 3, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route


385 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Warning for the Great Northern Slab and Sonic Slab areas on the west (left) end DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a fun route and a nice way to approach Breakfast of Champions. An initial wide layback crack leads to some broken block climbing. There are chains about 60 feet up that I just clipped and continued on up all in one pitch. The upper corner involves really fun stemming and great exposure. The pitch ends at the obvious tree.

For a belay anchor and rappel point, use the chain anchor with rap rings on the wall next to the tree.  A 70m will get you to the ground.  It's recommended to rap to the first set of chains if you have a 60m and do it in two raps.

Location Suggest change

I approached this by walking towards Princely Ambitions (which is found by heading right on the approach trail when it forks). Right before the Lower Wall is reached you can scramble up a well-traveled path (class 3) to a large, dirty ledge. Roger's Corner is directly above and can be identified by the wide layback corner.

Protection Suggest change

Double TCUs-#3 Camalot and nuts. Long slings helpful if you do it all in one pitch. 

Fixed biner lower-offs on both the mid-way anchor (~20 m) and the top anchor (~35 m). (A big thanks to S. Richards for adding these, summer 2022.) 

Photos

loading