Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Greg Donaldson, Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, 4/1967. FFA: Bob Crawford, Don Harder, 9/1974
Page Views: 6,939 total · 45/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 3, 2006 with improvements by Joshua Thompson
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


207 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun route and a nice way to approach Breakfast of Champions. An initial wide layback crack leads to some broken block climbing. There are chains about 60 feet up that I just clipped and continued on up all in one pitch. The upper corner involves really fun stemming and great exposure. The pitch ends at the obvious tree.

For a belay anchor and rappel point, use the chain anchor with rap rings on the wall next to the tree.  A 70m will get you to the ground.  It's recommended to rap to the first set of chains if you have a 60m and do it in two raps.

Location

I approached this by walking towards Princely Ambitions (which is found by heading right on the approach trail when it forks). Right before the Lower Wall is reached you can scramble up a well-traveled path (class 3) to a large, dirty ledge. Roger's Corner is directly above and can be identified by the wide layback corner.

Protection

Double TCUs-#3 Camalot and nuts. Long slings helpful if you do it all in one pitch.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
FA: Greg Donaldson, Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, April 1967.
FFA : Bob Crawford, Don Harder, Sept. 1974.- which means they did it free with hex's and nuts.
A fun challenge is to do this and Breakfast of Champions as one pitch, place 5 pieces in this and save cams needed for BOC. Aug 5, 2014
JRD
JRD  
Easy to do in one pitch - I used a double runner to clip a bolt on the intermediate belay station and then back-cleaned the last piece I put in before the intermediate bealy and finished without noticeable rope drag. Aug 24, 2015
Sean Maher
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Sean Maher   Santa Barbara, CA
 
We rapped the whole route from the tree belay with a 60 m yesterday. Rope stretch and a swing off to climbers left got our feet on the ground, but just barely. Knot your ends and use your head! May 13, 2016
BrokenChairs ~
Seattle, WA
  5.9
BrokenChairs ~   Seattle, WA
  5.9
How does this route have 3 stars? Did anyone who gave it 3 climb Godzilla? This thing is terrible. The only reason to do this route is to get to BOC. The route is littered with loose blocks and obviously created from the blast work of the Robbins Company leading to un natural weird climbing. The routes only saving grace is the last 15' giving it the one star it deserves. Climb with caution after the opening blue C4 crack and chimmney it don't pull on the blocks. If you place pro use nuts as every block is hollow and probably only held in by dirt and could be dislodged by SLCD expansion. Jun 19, 2017
Michael Nill
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Michael Nill   Seattle, WA
  5.9
Felt pretty stable to me. Jul 18, 2017
Hank Thompson
Tacoma, WA
 
Hank Thompson   Tacoma, WA
 
The lower section looks like a house of cards with a bunch of precarious blocks held together by dirt. A friend also pulled off a large piece right above the midway anchors recently and took a very nasty fall onto the sloping ledge. Aside from the last 30 ft of the climb (the only good part) the rock quality on this route is dubious. Mar 8, 2019