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Routes in Great Northern Slab

Air Over Aries S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aries (aka The Lizard) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blockbuster T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Breakfast of Champions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Northern Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let's Go Bowling T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Libra Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Marginal Karma T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nick O' Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On the Verge S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pisces T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pretty Vacant S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Roger's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sickle Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sonic Reducer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strength Through Bowling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar Bear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taurus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Terminal Preppie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Voyage to the Bottom of the Verge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Unknown to me
Page Views: 5,954 total · 42/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 3, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This is a fun route and a nice way to approach Breakfast of Champions. An initial wide layback crack leads to some broken block climbing. There are chains about 60 feet up that I just clipped and continued on up all in one pitch. The upper corner involves really fun stemming and great exposure. The pitch ends at the obvious tree with lots of slings.

Location

I approached this by walking towards Princely Ambitions (which is found by heading right on the approach trail when it forks). Right before the Lower Wall is reached you can scramble up a well-traveled path (class 3) to a large, dirty ledge. Roger's Corner is directly above and can be identified by the wide layback corner.

Protection

Double TCUs-#3 Camalot and nuts. Long slings helpful if you do it all in one pitch.

Photos

Michael Nill
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Michael Nill   Seattle, WA
  5.9
Felt pretty stable to me. Jul 18, 2017
BrokenChairs BrettC
Sultan, WA
  5.9
BrokenChairs BrettC   Sultan, WA
  5.9
How does this route have 3 stars? Did anyone who gave it 3 climb Godzilla? This thing is terrible. The only reason to do this route is to get to BOC. The route is littered with loose blocks and obviously created from the blast work of the Robbins Company leading to un natural weird climbing. The routes only saving grace is the last 15' giving it the one star it deserves. Climb with caution after the opening blue C4 crack and chimmney it don't pull on the blocks. If you place pro use nuts as every block is hollow and probably only held in by dirt and could be dislodged by SLCD expansion. Jun 19, 2017
Sean Maher
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Sean Maher   Santa Barbara, CA
 
We rapped the whole route from the tree belay with a 60 m yesterday. Rope stretch and a swing off to climbers left got our feet on the ground, but just barely. Knot your ends and use your head! May 13, 2016
JRD
JRD  
Easy to do in one pitch - I used a double runner to clip a bolt on the intermediate belay station and then back-cleaned the last piece I put in before the intermediate bealy and finished without noticeable rope drag. Aug 24, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
FA: Greg Donaldson, Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, April 1967.
FFA : Bob Crawford, Don Harder, Sept. 1974.- which means they did it free with hex's and nuts.
A fun challenge is to do this and Breakfast of Champions as one pitch, place 5 pieces in this and save cams needed for BOC. Aug 5, 2014