Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Greg Donaldson, Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, 4/1967. FFA: Bob Crawford, Don Harder, 9/1974
Page Views: 8,034 total · 47/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 3, 2006 with improvements by Joshua Thompson
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a fun route and a nice way to approach Breakfast of Champions. An initial wide layback crack leads to some broken block climbing. There are chains about 60 feet up that I just clipped and continued on up all in one pitch. The upper corner involves really fun stemming and great exposure. The pitch ends at the obvious tree.

For a belay anchor and rappel point, use the chain anchor with rap rings on the wall next to the tree.  A 70m will get you to the ground.  It's recommended to rap to the first set of chains if you have a 60m and do it in two raps.

Location

I approached this by walking towards Princely Ambitions (which is found by heading right on the approach trail when it forks). Right before the Lower Wall is reached you can scramble up a well-traveled path (class 3) to a large, dirty ledge. Roger's Corner is directly above and can be identified by the wide layback corner.

Protection

Double TCUs-#3 Camalot and nuts. Long slings helpful if you do it all in one pitch.

Photos