Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Herb North, Peter Nobels, Paul Davidson- Larry Coats 1st pitch 1983
Page Views: 32,923 total · 148/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Jan 23, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Dr. Rubo's has gained in popularity over the last few years as one of Sedona's best moderate multipitch outings. The climbing is pretty dang good, with the awesome splitter crack of the second pitch being the highlight of the ascent. The route sits on Summit Block Rock, found just left (west) of Coffeepot Rock.

P1) Climb the obvious slot on the left side of the face to a belay seat at bolts atop the limestone band.

P2) Thrutch up through the slot right above the belay to gain the splitter hand crack above. Once that peters out, follow discontinuous cracks to a belay on a sloping block.

P3) Follow the line of fixed pro (retrobolts and fixed pins) out right from the belay across the face. At the end, turn and climb up to gain the top of the ledge above. Belay.

P4) Climb east from the belay up broken ledges to the left side of the summit feature. Out on the left, find a single bolt, clip it, then make a sort of airy bouldery move to gain a small ledge, then scramble up easier stuff to the top.

Descent: Rappel (two ropes) off the east side into the saddle behind the formation. Scramble back to the front. Or, there is a set of anchors on a ledge 100’ down from the summit which will accommodate two raps with a single 70M rope. These anchors are not a superfluous installation, rather anchors for a different route that just come in handy.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack from 1/2" up to #4 Camalot.