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Routes in Summit Block Rock

Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quiet Storm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shagging the Doctor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.8 (a.k.a. Rap Route 5.8) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft
FA: D.Bloom, T. Cosentino 1999
Page Views: 925 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jan 22, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A shaded, varied and interesting route that takes you to the same belay ledge at the top of P3 of Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride allowing you to finish on the fourth pitch of that route to the summit.

Pitch 1 (165 feet, 5.10+) - Head up crumbly rock from the left to a bolt about 15 feet up. Pass through the small limestone band into some flaring finger crack that widens as you get higher eventually turning into offwidth. A #4 camalot protects the bottom of the OW. Higher up a #5 or #6 camalot likely protects this section but if you don't care for OW, gun through it laybacking to the hand crack and lower angle terrain above. it also appears you could get a #3 or #4 deep in the back of the OW.
Higher up, pass a drilled angle in a steeper hand crack section up to a short, clean corner with thin hands (.75 camalot) crack. Punch through this into a grunty left-angling offwidth section to gain a good, sloping ledge for a gear belay. Definitely save a #3, #2 and/or #1 camalot for the belay.

Pitch 2 (65 feet, 5.8) - Continue up the corner above the ledge on much easier ground for about 25 feet. Step right and make a slabby, unprotected traverse to the gully. Continue to the top of the gully and the belay, the same belay as the top of P3 of Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride. Gear belay anchor.

Pitch 3 (70 feet, 5.9) - The same as Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride's fourth pitch. Head straight up to a good ledge, move left quite a bit, clip the bolt and make the awkward mantle move up to easier ground and then to the cool summit.

Location

On the shady north side of the formation. Hike up along the base of the formation on the loose trail about halfway up to the saddle above. Look for the bolt protecting the initial chossy section.

Protection

A full rack with doubles or even triples in the .75 to #3 camalots. TCUs for the flaring crack down low on P1. A #5 or #6 camalot would probably be nice on the OW of P1.

Descent

One rappel with two 60m ropes from the summit top to the saddle on the NE side of the formation. Or two raps with a 60m rope from the summit to the same saddle, using the rap anchor atop Unknown 5.8 (a.k.a. Rap Route 5.8)

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
A great line that is a good shade option. I did the long first pitch as described by Jason, and thought it was an excellent Sandona pitch for the grade with lots of variety and mostly clean rock! Didn't see any bees thankfully. Apr 19, 2017
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
This IS a good line! Burly and continuous throughout much of the 1st pitch. An option we did to even out the pitches more was to belay at the pin with a largish cam for a second piece. Gives the next leader more of a 5.10 pitch and certainly reduces the rope drag of being out 150' and having to pull those last moves into the belay.

The traverse is silly-easy. Hard to imagine how anyone, especially the old- schoolers, could put 5.8 on it. R it is, but is probably only 5.3 or 4 at most-- and very short (about 15-20 ft).

The start of the route is farther up and around from Dr. Rubo's than one would think. It's actually quite close to where the rappel for Summit Block Rock touches down. As of 2016 there is also a good sized bee colonly very close to the start, very active in warm weather. Oct 24, 2016
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Thanks J! Jan 25, 2013
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
This route is "The Quiet Storm".
5.10+ F.A. D.Bloom, T. Cosentino 1999 Jan 23, 2013