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Routes in Summit Block Rock

Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quiet Storm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shagging the Doctor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.8 (a.k.a. Rap Route 5.8) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bloom/Cosentino
Page Views: 995 total, 8/month
Shared By: Justin Gallen on Feb 7, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is an OK route with a spectacular summit.
4 pitches
Double rope rapel

P1- Located 2 crack systems to the right of Dr. Rubo's, climb up to a small belay ledge with bolt. Crux is just below the ledge. 5.10 but awkward.

P2- Climb up adn left under roof. Fixed black #4.5 in crack around the roof. Bolt at belay.

P3- Climb up to the base of the block. Belay at tree.

P4- This is the last pitch of Dr. Rubo's. Scramble to the north side of the block, and step up. Bolts at top.


Descent- double 60m rapel off bolts to saddle.

Protection

Standard rack
3...1"-3"
2...3"-4"
Fixed cam on Pitch 2
Rap chains at top.

Location

Park at the end of Soldier's Pass road, and hike to Summit Block Rock, West of Coffee Pot Rock

Photos

Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
Awesome route by Sedona standards! Sustained 1st pitch at 5.10 thin hands. A little crumbly at the start until you reach the crack and then high quality. Could feel harder than straight 5.10 if you're not used to full on (awkward) crack climbing. 3 star 1st pitch for me.

2nd pitch is nearly as good, just totally different. From thin hands on p.1 to big hands/fist on p.2. Very airy step around end of roof! The next part would be full on O/W if not for the continual feet that appear whenever needed. 9+/10-

1 each TCUs, doubles 1" to 4" (.5 Camalot to #4 Camalot), small selection of nuts
Single bolt belays on p. 1 & 2 easily backed up with gear.

One rope, 2 raps now (1st one 98 ft). Also, approach listed is wrong. Do not park at Soldiers Pass! Sugarloaf trailhead is the place now. Dec 11, 2016
James Fisher
Sedona, AZ
James Fisher   Sedona, AZ
The gear is no longer fixed on p2 May 1, 2009