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Routes in Chocolate Rocks

Combination Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gallows, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Engine That Could, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mc-Crack-En T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Minute Maid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Peanut Butter and Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Potzo's Pudding T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shortcake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spinach T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zacker Cracker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Joe Herbst, Dave Hop. January 1973.
Page Views: 2,673 total, 19/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Jan 18, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Peanut Butter and Jam is a typical Joe Herbst offering on the right hand side of the Chocolate Rocks featuring awkward offwidth moves.

Build an anchor at the top, walk off left to the slung boulder atop Mc-Crack-En and rap with one rope.

Protection

Standard rack with an emphasis on wide gear up to a #5 C4 Camalot and an optional green Big Bro. Small cams or Ballnutz protect the crux.

Photos

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Wish I had read John's description above before attempting this one. Without a #5 Camalot, the last 20+ feet of awkward, flaring bomb bay/squeeze chimney is virtually unprotectable. The largest thing I had was a #4 Camalot and it was completely tapped out. Made for an exciting lead. Apr 1, 2007