Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Howard Booth, David Hop, Joe Herbst, January 1973
Page Views: 182 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on Apr 26, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Start up a large spike of rock with an offwidth crack on its left side. From the top of the spike, jam up into the short chimney, then stem and chimney around the white chockstone that blocks the exit. There's some loose rock just below the chockstone.

Guidebooks have traditionally rated this route at 5.6, but it's likely to be a rude shock for anyone expecting a casual warmup.

Location

The furthest right route at Chocolate Rocks, the obvious chimney about 50' uphill and right from Peanut Butter and Jam. Descend by scrambling off to the right; it would be easy to rappel from one of the jammed blocks at the top, but there's currently no anchor in place, so it would require leaving a cordelette and rings

Protection

Light rack to #5 Camalot, mostly fingers to thin hands. Sling blocks at top for anchor.

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