The Little Engine That Could
Avg: 0.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 50 ft|
|FA:||Howard Booth, David Hop, Joe Herbst, January 1973|
|Page Views:||151 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Townsend on Apr 26, 2015|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionStart up a large spike of rock with an offwidth crack on its left side. From the top of the spike, jam up into the short chimney, then stem and chimney around the white chockstone that blocks the exit. There's some loose rock just below the chockstone.
Guidebooks have traditionally rated this route at 5.6, but it's likely to be a rude shock for anyone expecting a casual warmup.
LocationThe furthest right route at Chocolate Rocks, the obvious chimney about 50' uphill and right from Peanut Butter and Jam. Descend by scrambling off to the right; it would be easy to rappel from one of the jammed blocks at the top, but there's currently no anchor in place, so it would require leaving a cordelette and rings
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