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Routes in Higher Security Risk

Cold Shot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Evolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gimme 3 Steps T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turmoil S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: S. Annecone and T. Hayes, 2006
Page Views: 92 total, 1/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Jan 13, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Evolution, formerly known as "Gimme Back my Bullets" and first TR'd in 1993, starts at the beginning of Cold Shot and then follows the sinuous seam crack up the Higher Security face. It's fairly sustained, with 11a or b cruxes at the 3rd, 4th, and 5th bolts. Exit the pod at the 5th bolt, angle up the left leaning crack, then hand traverse up a nice rail to the anchor.

There's still some scaly rock in places, but it's cleaning up quickly. Feels as pumpy and sustained as Cold Shot, but it's more technical and perhaps a little steeper.

Protection

Quick draws only, 6 bolts to anchor.

Photos

J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11
Hmmm, I don't know that I would go as far as calling this thing clean. I would say there is still quite a bit of questionable rock including friable flakes and overall hollow sounding bigger features. Okay climbing, but the rock quality is subpar. Nov 12, 2014
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
  5.11
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
  5.11
2012 - clean as a whistle. Ready for prime time and totally worth it.

Two distinct cruxes that are worth the effort of figuring out. I give it 2.5 stars. More if it was longer. Nov 5, 2012
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
 
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
 
Higher Security Risk still needs a little cleaning, but I thought this route was pretty nice and I wouldn't give it a bomb. There were several interesting moves, particularly getting into and out of the "pod". Most of the looser rock is near the anchors. This face gets a lot of good late-season sun in the afternoon. Oct 3, 2009
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
Ok climbing, but weird bolt locations and exfoliating chips blowing out from under left foot at crux. Felt harder than a lot of the 11d to 12a routes that I have done in the canyon. Not sure why, just kind of a weird route. Dec 15, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11b
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11b
I agree with the two comments above, this route still needs some serious cleaning. Dec 11, 2006
I second the heads up on the loose rock. A couple of foot holds disintegrated as I was traversing into the bigger stuff to the left. Several flakes flex, and there seems to be a largish area of hollow and scaly rock to the left of the crack that ends in the bigger stuff. If it received a serious exfoliation, it might be worth it. Sep 10, 2006
Jason Haas  
 
As a heads up, there's still plenty of loose rock on this thing. Apr 26, 2006