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Routes in Higher Security Risk

Cold Shot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Evolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gimme 3 Steps T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turmoil S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Rick Leitner
Page Views: 159 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Dec 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is on the right side of Higher Security Risk, about a minute uphill from Upper Security Risk. It's the thin crack that starts at the low point of the wall and angles slightly right. A thin right facing flake angle from the right, meeting the crack half way up.

This is a nice steep "slab" with strenuous moves on positive holds. The hard climbing (10ish) starts right off the ground. There are stemming opportunities to the right depending on your height and flexibility. The crux is at the 4th bolt and was balancy and reachy for me. I had a hard time clipping the last bolt, just after the crux, because I was stressed out and burned out. Actually, it was easy--I grabbed the draw.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
I really like this climb. Techy. Short and sweet. I didn't need to do too many tips locks. More crimps and sidepulls and footwork. Oct 22, 2017
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
  5.11b
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
  5.11b
5.11a might be a slightly sandbagged grade for this route. Traverse right just after the second bolt to get to the right-hand crack. There are some nice moves on this route, with a lot of crimpers and at least one finger-sized slot. Aug 17, 2011
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
This is worth a visit. It might get two stars in a different area, but this is Security. What can you do with Plan B just a 100 ft away? Dec 19, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
This thin crack is in fact a terrific little line requiring a good capacity to lock into tips-only placements. This is a fine line and well worth two stars. I did this several years ago with a friend who lost their footing with the locks established. The crack is just thin and deep enough to keep your fingers if you lose the feet. It took her close to a year to get the function back in two joints. Good rock, nice moves if you are ready. Dec 19, 2002

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