Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Evolution

5.11, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.2 from 19 votes
FA: S. Annecone and T. Hayes, 2006
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Security Risk M… > Higher Security Risk
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

Evolution, formerly known as "Gimme Back my Bullets" and first TR'd in 1993, starts at the beginning of Cold Shot and then follows the sinuous seam crack up the Higher Security face. It's fairly sustained, with 11a or b cruxes at the 3rd, 4th, and 5th bolts. Exit the pod at the 5th bolt, angle up the left leaning crack, then hand traverse up a nice rail to the anchor.

There's still some scaly rock in places, but it's cleaning up quickly. Feels as pumpy and sustained as Cold Shot, but it's more technical and perhaps a little steeper.

Protection

Quick draws only, 6 bolts to anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tom at the first crux past the 3rd bolt, eyeing his next foothold.
[Hide Photo] Tom at the first crux past the 3rd bolt, eyeing his next foothold.
Evolution.
[Hide Photo] Evolution.
Evolution snakes up the thin seam in the middle of Higher Security
[Hide Photo] Evolution snakes up the thin seam in the middle of Higher Security

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Haas
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] As a heads up, there's still plenty of loose rock on this thing. Apr 26, 2006
[Hide Comment] I second the heads up on the loose rock. A couple of foot holds disintegrated as I was traversing into the bigger stuff to the left. Several flakes flex, and there seems to be a largish area of hollow and scaly rock to the left of the crack that ends in the bigger stuff. If it received a serious exfoliation, it might be worth it. Sep 10, 2006
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] I agree with the two comments above, this route still needs some serious cleaning. Dec 11, 2006
slim

  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Ok climbing, but weird bolt locations and exfoliating chips blowing out from under left foot at crux. Felt harder than a lot of the 11d to 12a routes that I have done in the canyon. Not sure why, just kind of a weird route. Dec 15, 2008
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
 
[Hide Comment] Higher Security Risk still needs a little cleaning, but I thought this route was pretty nice and I wouldn't give it a bomb. There were several interesting moves, particularly getting into and out of the "pod". Most of the looser rock is near the anchors. This face gets a lot of good late-season sun in the afternoon. Oct 3, 2009
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
  5.11
[Hide Comment] 2012 - clean as a whistle. Ready for prime time and totally worth it.

Two distinct cruxes that are worth the effort of figuring out. I give it 2.5 stars. More if it was longer. Nov 5, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Hmmm, I don't know that I would go as far as calling this thing clean. I would say there is still quite a bit of questionable rock including friable flakes and overall hollow sounding bigger features. Okay climbing, but the rock quality is subpar. Nov 12, 2014
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] There's still some exfoliating junk on the left side of this line, but the seam is fairly clean. Fun, technical, and pumpy. Oct 7, 2019
ROCKMAN2
Nederland, CO
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Not clean. Needs to be cleaned and might be 2 stars once those big scabby flakes pop off. Dec 6, 2020