Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Pat Thompson & Azenda Thompson & Chris Coney
Page Views: 1,058 total · 7/month
Shared By: Rich Kelly on Oct 11, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This climb is located left of "Get your Dieck Off My...". Climb easily over low-angle terrain past 2 bolts to a nice easy corner. Place gear in the corner and follow it to the roof. This is where the fun begins. Place some small cams in a horizontal crack at roof and traverse left (easier then it looks). Place another piece or reach up and clip the last bolt. Make difficult moves to stand up above little roof and another (thin slab, with little for the feet or hands) to reach the anchor. This is a fun stretch from the roof to the anchors. I would have given this climb another star if it had more climbing like this section.

Protection

3 bolts plus gear (light rack, small-med cams would suffice) to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Uhh... 10a for the move at the last bolt? I thought it felt like 10d. Was there a way to skip that thin moves off of the slanting sidepulls (left hand) that I did not see? Were there once footholds or something? Jun 14, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Pat Thompson gives this route an 11a rating. Here is an excerpt from his comment on "Barnyard Animals":

Just Moo It, 11a. Just left of Barnyard Animals, climb past two bolts on a broken slab past bushes and then go up an easy crack to a small roof. Step over the roof and do some awfully thin moves past a bolt to the anchors. Pro: 3 bolts plus some small cams and stoppers.

Rolofson's new guide book rates it 9+/10a, but that's probably an error. Jun 14, 2006
Rich Kelly
Boulder
  5.10+
Rich Kelly   Boulder
  5.10+
I was overly influenced by the guidebook rating. It did seem like solid 10, but I thought maybe I should have been trusting my feet more. I do remember that I had to make quite a long reach up and left to complete the last move of the climb and that it would be quite a bit harder for shorter climbers (I am 5'11"). I bumped up the rating to 10+. Oct 20, 2006
Logan Collins
Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
Logan Collins   Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
If this is the route I climbed today, I must have missed the last bolt or maybe I clipped the wrong anchors. I only clipped 2 bolts and made some really shitty nut placements (that probably would have failed if I fell) and basically ran it out to the anchors. It was pretty scary lol. That's what I get for not reading the beta. Jul 17, 2017