Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: somebody naughty
Page Views: 942 total · 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 17, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a strange route that uses bolts and some gear on a right-angling line to catch a crusty, slippery boulder problem up high.

Start down and right of Sofa Kingdom and Theen Crack below some bolts. Scramble up to the 1st bolt. Move up onto a slightly crumbly slab clipping a couple bolts before finding a surprising amount of grey epoxy on a flake. Keep angling right. Once below the crux bulge, you may clip the bolt on the route to the right in case you didn't bring any gear. Move up and clip the bolt below the flaring crack. Now, the difficulty suddenly increase as you get a wide hands jam in the flare. Your feet may skate on the crumbly slab as you try to lieback the flare. You can switch directions with a loose foot jam or continue liebacking up to the funky anchor with a bolt and bit of chains and a bolt with a coldshut. If this is close to your limit, you may sweat these last moves not wanting to fall onto the slab below.

Location Suggest change

This is down and right of Sofa Kingdom and Theen Crack.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and some finger-sized gear. One could get a marginal big hands-sized piece in near the crux, but that would take away a key hold.

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