Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Pat Thompson, 2001
Page Views: 1,697 total · 8/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on May 18, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

35 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This route is just right of Little Stevie's Favorite Heifer, which goes up a tan quartz dike. It starts by a steep lichenous face and is somewhat desperate looking on the lower half.

Clip a bolt on a slab, make a long reach up the steep face to a second bolt, then power into the steep face and clip a third bolt. Going directly past this third bolt is the obvious line, and very hard, while decent holds exist a bit to the right. The rightward way is probably mid-5.11, and passes the third bolt just left of your shoulder, before hand traversing back to the fourth bolt. Once the fourth bolt is clipped, continue on easier terrain, pass a contrived lieback and two more bolts, and gain chains that are shared with the route to the left.

This route offers only a tiny bit of hard climbing, for the visiting hardperson.


Seven bolts to an anchor.


I am hesitant to claim this route, because it is such a contrived steaming pile, but it is obvious I bolted it. I think it goes at mid 12, but I was not able to do crux. I dislike this route so much that I will at least move 3rd and 4th bolt to right for a little better route or remove them all together probably sometime this summer. Sorry for the pile. Jun 1, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Relax, the route cleaned up a little over the last few years- some of the holds have broken off, some becoming worse, some becoming better. I'll go with ~5.12b if done 'to the left.' The moves are pretty hard and the 3rd clip would be made from a not-so-nice crimper, or from the semi-sloper above. Definitely a heads up! It might be better just to skip it & make a few more moves to the jugs and clip #4. Jun 14, 2006
salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
Ditto, Kateri. Aug 14, 2007
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
I liked the crux sequence on this route actually, and it did not occur to me that I could cheat right until someone else pointed it out (I also thought this was a 5.10 when I started up it so take that for what it's worth). Being 6ft and taller is definitely an advantage on this route. May 14, 2009

Hard to rate this one as it is basically a couple move boulder problem. The sloper for the right hand has a slight bit of a thumb catch that helps a bit. Fun throw to the hold above the bulge. I'm pretty tall, which definitely seemed to help, as I was able to use good feet for the throw. Aug 5, 2009
Boulder, CO
Branty   Boulder, CO
Going up to the left is more fun but requires some tricky footwork. It's do-able at the grade, though! Try the crux a few different ways -- one will surely work. Jun 10, 2018