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Routes in Red Twin

Incline Ledge T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Potholes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Ridge, Red Spire S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Harvey Carter, 1950s
Page Views: 879 total · 6/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 1, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This route is best done as a TR, if you've done Potholes and are looking for another line to do in a pinch. It is loose, sandy, and fragile.... This is for the seekers of the obscure.

Find this line on the Red Spire of the Twin Spires, just about 20-25 feet left of Potholes.

Ascend a right-angling, left-facing shallow dihedral. Find flakes & jams on this dihedral/ramp. Balance your weight so as not to pull off anything important. Supposedly, at the top of the dihedral/ramp, there is a pin. Then, move slightly left to the obvious pin. Pull the bulge slighty left of the pin. The line of least resistance at the top seems to head right to connect with Potholes at the top.

Rappel 60 feet.

Protection

Drilled pin (or two?), a few cams, a no-fall attitude or a box.

Photos

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Graham Montgomery
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Graham Montgomery   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Yeah, this is definitely a TR, and I am not sure is even worth doing as a TR. Did it because we didn't have time to setup anything else before work after doing Potholes. There is a series of crimpy balancey moves that felt 5.9+/5.10- in the middle to me. It was the only remotely good section of the climb. The rest of it was meh, with the same finish as in Potholes. Jun 23, 2017