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Routes in Red Twin

Incline Ledge T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Potholes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Ridge, Red Spire S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,471 total, 7/month
Shared By: Barrett Cooper on Jun 22, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This climb is not very well-protected and is easily toproped from the chains on top of Potholes.

It starts on the southeast edge of Red Spire about 20 feet to the left of Potholes. From there, it moves up and to the right past one old pin, over a small ledge to another pin, then finished out on the same last moves as Potholes. While I like this climb better than Potholes because it is a lot more face climbing and you run less of a risk of sticking your hand in something that really doesn't smell very good (like on Potholes), I must say doing it as a toprope the first time as opposed to leading it right off the bat would be wise.

Rap east from the chains on top of the spire.

Protection

This route is best toproped from Potholes, otherwise take a pair of quicks for the two pins, some smaller tricams for psychological protection, and something to tie into the chains on top.

Photos

Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
This description actually sounds like Incline Ledge. The South Ridge of the Red Spire starts just left of the true south ridge and climbs up to and over the roof on the direct south ridge, then continues on easier climbing to the summit. See the picture I posted for more info. Oct 12, 2008
Oops, my bad, I got my mountains crossed. Rap East off the chains on the top, not west, the same for Potholes. West would take you down between Red and White Spires and is not a good idea. Mar 29, 2002