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South Ridge, Red Spire
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 1.5 from 8
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Routes in Red Twin
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Incline Ledge T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Potholes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Potholes Variation TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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South Ridge, Red Spire S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,998 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Barrett Cooper on Jun 22, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures.
Previously: the raptor closures will be the same as for 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously: the raptor closures will be the same as for 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
This climb is not very well-protected and is easily toproped from the chains on top of Potholes.
It starts on the southeast edge of Red Spire about 20 feet to the left of Potholes. From there, it moves up and to the right past one old pin, over a small ledge to another pin, then finished out on the same last moves as Potholes. While I like this climb better than Potholes because it is a lot more face climbing and you run less of a risk of sticking your hand in something that really doesn't smell very good (like on Potholes), I must say doing it as a toprope the first time as opposed to leading it right off the bat would be wise.
Rap east from the chains on top of the spire.
It starts on the southeast edge of Red Spire about 20 feet to the left of Potholes. From there, it moves up and to the right past one old pin, over a small ledge to another pin, then finished out on the same last moves as Potholes. While I like this climb better than Potholes because it is a lot more face climbing and you run less of a risk of sticking your hand in something that really doesn't smell very good (like on Potholes), I must say doing it as a toprope the first time as opposed to leading it right off the bat would be wise.
Rap east from the chains on top of the spire.
Protection
This route is best toproped from Potholes, otherwise take a pair of quicks for the two pins, some smaller tricams for psychological protection, and something to tie into the chains on top.
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