Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: old dudes
Page Views: 4,189 total · 24/month
Shared By: Casey Bernal on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


50 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details

Description

This is the obvious and excellent crack on the right side of Bob's Rock. The pro for the first ~15' is poor/nil because of the flaring cracks. After the small ledge, the crack is a perfect vertical to overhanging hand crack. The rock takes good pro and the fall is safe. Definitely a good place to push yourself if it is at your limit.

Protection

A set of nuts, hexes. Cams from tips to fist, possibly doubles in hand sizes. A 50m rope will get you down.

Photos

Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.9+
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.9+
The cold shuts were replaced with bomber new anchors. Jul 5, 2005
Mike S  
A single set of Camalots from #0.3-3 and small/medium nuts protect this route adequately.

Rated 5.10a/b in Arkansas Valley guidebook. Jul 13, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
A guy at the crag told me that the diheadral a few feet right of Bob's was Air Soles, and better than Bob's. Although he was trying to help, that's not true. It's some other 5.9ish route. For the unknown route, take microcams and micronuts for that thin dihedral or run it out from the bolt. Okay but not great. Should have just climbed Bob's Crack. May 29, 2012
Clay Hansen
Colorado
Clay Hansen   Colorado
Definitely stout for the grade, but that seems to be Buena Vista all together. I felt that the crux was exiting the hand crack. If you're new to leading 10s on gear, I highly recommend rehearsing it on toprope. Aug 16, 2016