Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,613 total · 17/month
Shared By: Stephen Nance on Aug 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

33 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details


Climb to the ledge then follow 3 bolts next to seam. Finish up and left, pull a small roof (easier), then go up into the dihedral to a 2 bolt anchor.


This is on the middle right side of the rock.


Quickdraws and maybe a few cams small to medium-sized.


Jordan Winters
Minturn, CO
Jordan Winters   Minturn, CO
Super fun route combining technique/ power/ and balance - use the same anchors as 'Flakes' Jun 18, 2009
Mike Soucy
Longmont, CO
Mike Soucy   Longmont, CO
Excellent and challenging for the grade, your ego just might get busted. As for the lieback section at the top of the "Flakes" route, a #2 Camalot at the bottom and a #0.4 in the horizontal a bit higher protect it well. An additional #1 is really all you need. Jul 13, 2009
nate post
nate post   Silverthorne
I really enjoyed this climb. I did not have any cams with me, so that made the last 40 feet to the anchors feel a little bit spicy. I would definitely climb this again. I thought it was at least 11a, if it was 10c, then the other 10c "Hot Foot & High Step" was 10a. That or maybe I just don't like my ego busted. Haha! Apr 26, 2012
Lee Jenkins
Tucson, Arizona
Lee Jenkins   Tucson, Arizona
It is more like .11a. Hot Foot is .10a/b.

There is also an unnamed 5.11 to the right. 5 bolts plus gear. Apr 29, 2012
Todd Felix
Todd Felix  
'Climb to the ledge' to start the route. Well there are several ways to do this. What is the typical start for this climb?
1. 20 feet climbers' right is a moderate corner start, but this will offer no protection to a second who ascends the same start (you could probably fiddle a nut, but it would be too low to protect the 2nd and may pull out with the sideways pull to the next bolt). This is also way off the line of the climb and out of character with the rest of the route.
2. Right side of the direct face up to the ledge. Unprotected with a bouldery start (5.10 if short, easier if tall). Not too bad but a bit scary. I wonder if a bolt in this section would be prudent (but might need to be stick-clipped to protect the bouldery start). Without a bolt, it's not too bad, but it is run-out. It makes a great start to the route.
3. Left side of the direct face up some liebacks (there are actually 2 variations here too). Also a bouldery start and would make a scary lead (I TR'd this start). 5.11-ish the way I went. This would make a great start to the route, but it is dangerous. Perhaps a bolt in here would be prudent? Probably would need to be stick-clipped or it would be hard to clip. I think there was opportunity for a piece of gear in a horizontal, but that's pretty high up past some hard climbing.

And I think it was 4 bolts, not 3. And it's definitely harder than 5.10c. Jul 26, 2013
Lee Jenkins
Tucson, Arizona
Lee Jenkins   Tucson, Arizona
Todd. The start is the same as the unnamed 5 bolt 5.11 to the right.
Climb the runout face directly below the 5.11 bolt line.

Most people TR both routes.

A new bolt would be frowned upon since this route has been climbed without it forever! Sep 7, 2013
This is the best route at Bob's Rock, maybe in BV! It has everything. Oct 18, 2016