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Routes in Bob's Rock

Air Soles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bob's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cartoon Watcher T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Depends S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
E.T. S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Ego Buster T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Groundhog Day T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Hot Foot and High Step S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Power Pig S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rio de Jean Perro S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slightly Smaller Than Large S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Special Bob S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spotty Lives S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Top Dawg S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Top Rope Slab TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Twist and Shout S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Violetta S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,239 total, 16/month
Shared By: Stephen Nance on Aug 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details

Description

Climb to the ledge then follow 3 bolts next to seam. Finish up and left, pull a small roof (easier), then go up into the dihedral to a 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This is on the middle right side of the rock.

Protection

Quickdraws and maybe a few cams small to medium-sized.

Photos

This is the best route at Bob's Rock, maybe in BV! It has everything. Oct 18, 2016
Lee Jenkins
Tucson, Arizona
  5.11-
Lee Jenkins   Tucson, Arizona
  5.11-
Todd. The start is the same as the unnamed 5 bolt 5.11 to the right.
Climb the runout face directly below the 5.11 bolt line.

Most people TR both routes.

A new bolt would be frowned upon since this route has been climbed without it forever! Sep 7, 2013
Todd Felix
5.11-
Todd Felix  
5.11-
'Climb to the ledge' to start the route. Well there are several ways to do this. What is the typical start for this climb?
1. 20 feet climbers' right is a moderate corner start, but this will offer no protection to a second who ascends the same start (you could probably fiddle a nut, but it would be too low to protect the 2nd and may pull out with the sideways pull to the next bolt). This is also way off the line of the climb and out of character with the rest of the route.
2. Right side of the direct face up to the ledge. Unprotected with a bouldery start (5.10 if short, easier if tall). Not too bad but a bit scary. I wonder if a bolt in this section would be prudent (but might need to be stick-clipped to protect the bouldery start). Without a bolt, it's not too bad, but it is run-out. It makes a great start to the route.
3. Left side of the direct face up some liebacks (there are actually 2 variations here too). Also a bouldery start and would make a scary lead (I TR'd this start). 5.11-ish the way I went. This would make a great start to the route, but it is dangerous. Perhaps a bolt in here would be prudent? Probably would need to be stick-clipped or it would be hard to clip. I think there was opportunity for a piece of gear in a horizontal, but that's pretty high up past some hard climbing.

And I think it was 4 bolts, not 3. And it's definitely harder than 5.10c. Jul 26, 2013
Lee Jenkins
Tucson, Arizona
  5.11-
Lee Jenkins   Tucson, Arizona
  5.11-
It is more like .11a. Hot Foot is .10a/b.

There is also an unnamed 5.11 to the right. 5 bolts plus gear. Apr 29, 2012
nate post
Silverthorne
  5.11a
nate post   Silverthorne
  5.11a
I really enjoyed this climb. I did not have any cams with me, so that made the last 40 feet to the anchors feel a little bit spicy. I would definitely climb this again. I thought it was at least 11a, if it was 10c, then the other 10c "Hot Foot & High Step" was 10a. That or maybe I just don't like my ego busted. Haha! Apr 26, 2012
Mike Soucy
Longmont, CO
Mike Soucy   Longmont, CO
Excellent and challenging for the grade, your ego just might get busted. As for the lieback section at the top of the "Flakes" route, a #2 Camalot at the bottom and a #0.4 in the horizontal a bit higher protect it well. An additional #1 is really all you need. Jul 13, 2009
Jordan Winters
Minturn, CO
 
Jordan Winters   Minturn, CO
 
Super fun route combining technique/ power/ and balance - use the same anchors as 'Flakes' Jun 18, 2009