Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: TR: Anderson, Hanson?, 1993? FRA: Mark MacClary?
Page Views: 2,236 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mark MacClary on Jan 8, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

I think this is the best route in Castlewood. I stumbled upon it almost five years ago and fell in love at first sight. A friend (thanks, Pack) and I must have worked it for 35 days that first year.

Anyways, it shares the first three bolts with Rim Job, amazing slapping and heel hook up the arete. Then traverse right in the seam, and make an interesting clip. Get your feet under you, and throw for the BIG rail. It's a pretty big dyno, but the rail is huge, making the move maybe 12b. Clip the fourth or just skip it, and make one more moderate toss up right to the good pod. Here's the crux, I use a left hand sidepull which is actually a small, broken piece out of a big, white rock. Get your left foot up on the polished rock, and throw right up into a horizontal, credit card slot. The move is super frustrating, because you have to hit it perfect, more precision than power.

I will try to get some pictures up before climbing boulder freezes.

Protection

This shares the first three bolts with Rim Job then breaks right for three more bolts. I recommend putting a long one on the fouth as it is a little hairy to clip. Also the fifth bolt can easily be skipped for the R.P.

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