Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: TR: Anderson, Hanson?, 1993? FRA: Mark MacClary?
Page Views: 1,893 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mark MacClary on Jan 8, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

I think this is the best route in Castlewood. I stumbled upon it almost five years ago, and fell in love at first sight. A friend (thanks, Pack) and I must have worked it for 35 days that first year.

Anyways, it shares the first three bolts with Rim Job, amazing slapping and heel hook up the arete. Then traverse right in the seem and make an interesting clip. Get your feet under you and throw for the BIG rail. It's a pretty big dyno, but the rail is huge, making the move maybe 12b. Clip the fourth or just skip it and make one more moderate toss up right to the good pod. Here's the crux, I use a left hand sidepull which is actually a small, broken piece out of a big, white rock. Get your left foot up on the polished rock (sorry my foot has popped off more times than I can count) and throw right up into a horizontal credit card slot. The move is super frustrating because you have to hit it perfect, more precision than power. Maybe even harder than 13c?

I will try to get some pictures up before c.b. freezes.

Protection

This shares the first three bolts with Rim Job then breaks right for three more bolts. I recommend putting a long one on the fouth as it is a little hairy to clip. Also the fifth bolt can easily be skipped for the R.P.

Photos

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Mark MacClary
  5.13c
Mark MacClary  
  5.13c
I got back on this route a couple of days ago and found some slightly easier beta. Use a 1 or 2 finger rock for the right hand as an intermediate before the slot. Brings it down to 13B/C I was thinking. Anyways someone strong get on this thing and tell me what you think, as I'm pretty sure it is still awaiting its second ascent. Mar 31, 2009
Kegan Minock
colorado springs
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
Hey, Mark! Psyched to see this post. I hit Rim Job a few months ago and didn't even realize the bolts for this route. Can't wait for the summer so I can work this some more! Jan 9, 2011
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
If I am not mistaken, which is always possible, this sounds a lot like the original variation to Rim Job, cutting right after the third bolt on Rim Job and firing up the steep, right side headwall, that was originally, and successfully, run by the Rim Job FA team. As I recall, the Bones variation was run free as a TR at the time but not given a clean red point (circa 1993). Did you place new bolts for the variation described or use the existing bolts for Bones? If the latter is true, you may or may not have a first red point but certainly not an FA. Mar 21, 2013
Brother Numsie   Nepal
I don't remember anyone successfully working that hideous face bitd. Mar 22, 2013
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Mike, I was pretty certain that it had all been done free at the time, but not red pointed. Apologies to Mark if I'm wrong. Perhaps Tom (Hanson) or TA has further info. Anyway you cut it, linking it all up on red point is really cool. It's a lot of hard moves to stack together, and sharp. My recollection, not substantiated by any notes, is belaying TA through it on TR with everything done free, but again not red pointed. My own attempt was thoroughly dogged. But, we did get back for several runs subsequent to getting the bolts installed, including with you. Mar 23, 2013
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Note on the grade: perhaps Mark has a better sense of this than I do; however, my take on it was harder than Rim Job proper, but not as hard as routes like The Web in Eldo or the Black Streak in CWC. That would put in the 5.13 category but perhaps not quite "c" .... Mar 24, 2013