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Routes in Falls Wall

Arborist Arms S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bitch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bones S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Chimney Sweep TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Club Cafe TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Raisen Sings, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Headless Corpse of Roger Henry Floth, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Invaders from the North S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
It's Flakey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lactic Tactics T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Long For This World T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Out of Arms Reach S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaroid S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rim Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Steam Rock Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swinging Sirloin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wall of Gore TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: TR: Anderson, Hanson?, 1993? FRA: Mark MacClary?
Page Views: 1,854 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mark MacClary on Jan 8, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


I think this is the best route in Castlewood. I stumbled upon it almost five years ago, and fell in love at first sight. A friend (thanks, Pack) and I must have worked it for 35 days that first year.

Anyways, it shares the first three bolts with Rim Job, amazing slapping and heel hook up the arete. Then traverse right in the seem and make an interesting clip. Get your feet under you and throw for the BIG rail. It's a pretty big dyno, but the rail is huge, making the move maybe 12b. Clip the fourth or just skip it and make one more moderate toss up right to the good pod. Here's the crux, I use a left hand sidepull which is actually a small, broken piece out of a big, white rock. Get your left foot up on the polished rock (sorry my foot has popped off more times than I can count) and throw right up into a horizontal credit card slot. The move is super frustrating because you have to hit it perfect, more precision than power. Maybe even harder than 13c?

I will try to get some pictures up before c.b. freezes.


This shares the first three bolts with Rim Job then breaks right for three more bolts. I recommend putting a long one on the fouth as it is a little hairy to clip. Also the fifth bolt can easily be skipped for the R.P.


- No Photos -
Mark MacClary
Mark MacClary  
I got back on this route a couple of days ago and found some slightly easier beta. Use a 1 or 2 finger rock for the right hand as an intermediate before the slot. Brings it down to 13B/C I was thinking. Anyways someone strong get on this thing and tell me what you think, as I'm pretty sure it is still awaiting its second ascent. Mar 31, 2009
Kegan Minock
colorado springs
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
Hey, Mark! Psyched to see this post. I hit Rim Job a few months ago and didn't even realize the bolts for this route. Can't wait for the summer so I can work this some more! Jan 9, 2011
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
If I am not mistaken, which is always possible, this sounds a lot like the original variation to Rim Job, cutting right after the third bolt on Rim Job and firing up the steep, right side headwall, that was originally, and successfully, run by the Rim Job FA team. As I recall, the Bones variation was run free as a TR at the time but not given a clean red point (circa 1993). Did you place new bolts for the variation described or use the existing bolts for Bones? If the latter is true, you may or may not have a first red point but certainly not an FA. Mar 21, 2013
Brother Numsie   Nepal
I don't remember anyone successfully working that hideous face bitd. Mar 22, 2013
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Mike, I was pretty certain that it had all been done free at the time, but not red pointed. Apologies to Mark if I'm wrong. Perhaps Tom (Hanson) or TA has further info. Anyway you cut it, linking it all up on red point is really cool. It's a lot of hard moves to stack together, and sharp. My recollection, not substantiated by any notes, is belaying TA through it on TR with everything done free, but again not red pointed. My own attempt was thoroughly dogged. But, we did get back for several runs subsequent to getting the bolts installed, including with you. Mar 23, 2013
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Note on the grade: perhaps Mark has a better sense of this than I do; however, my take on it was harder than Rim Job proper, but not as hard as routes like The Web in Eldo or the Black Streak in CWC. That would put in the 5.13 category but perhaps not quite "c" .... Mar 24, 2013

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