Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | TR: Anderson, Hanson?, 1993? FRA: Mark MacClary? |
Page Views: | 2,982 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Mark MacClary on Jan 8, 2004 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
I think this is the best route in Castlewood. I stumbled upon it almost five years ago and fell in love at first sight. A friend (thanks, Pack) and I must have worked it for 35 days that first year.
Anyways, it shares the first three bolts with Rim Job, amazing slapping and heel hook up the arete. Then traverse right in the seam, and make an interesting clip. Get your feet under you, and throw for the BIG rail. It's a pretty big dyno, but the rail is huge, making the move maybe 12b. Clip the fourth or just skip it, and make one more moderate toss up right to the good pod. Here's the crux, I use a left hand sidepull which is actually a small, broken piece out of a big, white rock. Get your left foot up on the polished rock, and throw right up into a horizontal, credit card slot. The move is super frustrating, because you have to hit it perfect, more precision than power.
I will try to get some pictures up before climbing boulder freezes.
Anyways, it shares the first three bolts with Rim Job, amazing slapping and heel hook up the arete. Then traverse right in the seam, and make an interesting clip. Get your feet under you, and throw for the BIG rail. It's a pretty big dyno, but the rail is huge, making the move maybe 12b. Clip the fourth or just skip it, and make one more moderate toss up right to the good pod. Here's the crux, I use a left hand sidepull which is actually a small, broken piece out of a big, white rock. Get your left foot up on the polished rock, and throw right up into a horizontal, credit card slot. The move is super frustrating, because you have to hit it perfect, more precision than power.
I will try to get some pictures up before climbing boulder freezes.
Protection
This shares the first three bolts with Rim Job then breaks right for three more bolts. I recommend putting a long one on the fouth as it is a little hairy to clip. Also the fifth bolt can easily be skipped for the R.P.
Photos
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