Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Falls Wall

Arborist Arms S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bitch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bones S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Chimney Sweep TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Club Cafe TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Raisen Sings, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Headless Corpse of Roger Henry Floth, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Invaders from the North S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
It's Flakey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lactic Tactics T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Long For This World T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Out of Arms Reach S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaroid S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rim Job S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Steam Rock Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swinging Sirloin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wall of Gore TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Wright, Hanson, Lane, Anderson, 10/89? 1994?
Page Views: 849 total, 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The furthest route left on the Falls Wall is a steep little thing that arcs a bit left on sharp edges and thin pockets. This was named during the FA when Mike Lane took a whipper lifting his belayer halfway up the route. It has nice, continuous climbing with good, solid climbing.

Protection

Four draws and a rope.
FA - Add TA - October 1989, hand drilled I think. Jul 18, 2008
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
 
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
 
I can't believe it took 20 years to connect that pun, good job Tom! And yes, once again I was swinging all over it and nearly pulled Brian off his belay deck, fortunately he weighs more than Richard did. Feb 26, 2008
Swinging Sir Lane! Feb 25, 2008
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
 
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
 
Wow, that was weird, Chris. We posted within a minute of each other. Wonder if anyone else will ever read this. Feb 24, 2008
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
 
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
 
Just revisited this route today (with Mr. Cavallaro) after about 18 years. Forgot how fun it was. There's like 4 or 5 .11A moves in a row, culminating with one solid .11 move to a cobble; then 3-4 .10 moves to the anchors.

Those anchors need to be reset; we were under the influence of some goofy idea from Climbing Mag at the time regarding offsetting the anchors to better equalize the forces.

If you visit this wall to work on Rim Job or Bones, don't miss this. Doesn't look like much, but its fun.

Incidentally, this was the first route by the Anderson/Wright/Leonard/Lane crew at CWC, and while this was getting tapped in (by hand, which influenced both Tod and Richard to buy power drills) we met Tom Hanson. Kinda historic in CWC terms. Feb 24, 2008
Classic! May be the most sustained climb of it's grade in CWC. Don't sally out right at the 3rd bolt, but stay straight on the face. Climbs a lot longer and better than it looks. I hucked meat. Feb 24, 2008