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Routes in Back of the Nineties

Aphrodite S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mission Vision S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Priapos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Mabe, Juth
Page Views: 666 total · 4/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Sep 8, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Priapos, son of Aphrodite, is a variation that goes straight up the face after Aphrodite's 4th clip. Steep edging and a balancy crux put you to a huge juggy horn. Continue past some easier climbing to the anchors. Lower 100' back to the ledge.

A couple of stars for the good movement and clean rock. Though a bit contrived, I admit, so put your blinders on.

Protection

10 bolts to two bolt lowering anchor.

Photos

Bruce Pech
  5.10d
Bruce Pech  
  5.10d
The crux between the 8th and 9th bolts is a bit spicy: insecure moves with the 8th bolt at your feet before you can clip the 9th bolt and yard on the big jug. But fun too. Aug 29, 2008
This is a pretty good route, but it is a little unclear where it goes. Climbing straight between the bolts is probably what was intended but makes the climbing much harder. At one point I traversed left to better holds and back right to make the clip below the first big face hold. I contemplated going straight up but the last bolt would have been several feet below me and chickened out. My partner Joe climbed a little more left with better holds and had a much easier time of it. Sep 3, 2007
I thought this line was way better than the other two, a Clear Creek Classic, worth every bit of 10d. Aug 18, 2007
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
I thought this was harder than Aphrodite and will have to go back and try to finish it. (Apparently I bailed at the crux in dimming light.) I can't really rate it since I didn't finish it, but I barely trad harder than 11a. Jul 14, 2007

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