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Routes in Back of the Nineties

Aphrodite S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mission Vision S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Priapos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Mabe, Choboian, Juth
Page Views: 102 total · 1/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Sep 8, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Mission Vision is the far right route at the Back of the Nineties crag, to the right of the overhang at the base. As its name implies, Mission Vision provides unique and excellent views of the Mission Wall, and the climbing is very similar to the adventure style routes on that wall.

This is kind of the warm up. Start with a stem dihedral for a few clips. Once on the mossy ledge, make high clip and continue up faint layback crack and some slopey holds to slab ledge underneath a pegmatite bulge (a tad spicy getting to this clip). Crank over the bulge (crux) and continue up jugular climbing to a good perch at the left edge of the grassy ledge and rap station. Lower about 90 feet to the ground OR continue up another couple of clips on well-featured and clean 5.8 climbing to the top of the Crag buttress. From here, lower with 69 meter cord, or bring two ropes. (NO, a 60 meter will not get you to the ground from this high point.)

One star for the long continuous climbing, the location and views. Some of the dirty rock may detract from the quality but might clean up after several ascents, unless you strangley enjoy that "adventurous feel" like I do.

Protection

9 bolts to first set of anchors. 3 additional draws to top out on upper anchors. 1 belay bolt at the start. (Bring a dozen draws.)

Photos

Kevin P
Loveland
 
Kevin P   Loveland
 
Just as good as Aphrodite. Some loose dirt and foliage you have to work around. I didn't see anything that warrants a PG-13 rating. There is some loose rock, so be careful and maybe wear a helmet at while belaying. Both of us did inadvertently send some rocks down. There is a bolt at the belay ledge which is handy. Jul 23, 2015
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.10+ PG13
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.10+ PG13
FWIW, clipping the bolts didn't seem too hard, but again someone without as much lockoff practice (though not much for me) might have trouble with the 3rd bolt. You do clip it off a couple of very positive holds. The 6th bolt seemed fine to me. I think this route is a smidge harder than Aphrodite, if only briefly, at then 6th bolt. Maybe going right of the bolt is easier? One cool relic is the ancient bolt on the ledge between the 2nd and 3rd bolts...Kor relic? Thanks for the route! Jun 11, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I think every time I do this route it loses a star. Jun 10, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
The clips aren't too reachy, but it is a bit sporty getting to a few of them. Safe, but not for a leader at their limit. Jun 15, 2009
Bruce Pech
  5.10b/c
Bruce Pech  
  5.10b/c
The crux is quite height-dependent. If you're 5'2" or 5'3", the crimp and high step past the bulge may feel like hard .11, not .10.

The bolting's consistent with the climbing. The runouts are on moderate rock and someone's extended the reachy clip with a quicklink. Aug 29, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Ok, so I climbed these routes again for the first time since I bolted them in 2004. Mission Vision may be PG13.

To reiterate my orig route description: the third bolt is a bit height-dependent to clip off the ledge. There are good holds getting to it, so be careful.

Getting from bolt 5 to 6 is kind of run-out albeit on moderate climbing, but a fall would be bad. I am ok with how the route is, but I could go back up there and poke a couple more in in these spots to make it safer. Wanted to see what community opinion is on this route's safety.

Taking a poll....

I think Aphrodite and its variation are bolted fine for the grade. Jul 21, 2008
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.10b
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.10b
Fun route but not nearly as hard as the 2 to the left. My chopped 70m (call it 67m) was enough to get down from the top anchors, but not much rope to spare.... Apr 16, 2008
Decent route but not as good as the other two. The crux bulge is a little loose in spots and my partner pulled off a hold. Turns out he was too far right and the route still goes ok starting a little left of the bolt there.

I rapped with my partner's 60 m rope to the ground from the anchor at the top of the cliff with 1 ft to spare. So, you should be able to make it, but to be sure check your middle mark. Sep 3, 2007
You could bounce around a lot on this one if you were careless or just unlucky. Aug 18, 2007

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