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Routes in Little Blob

Lost and Found S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slow Death T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Take Five S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Two Minute Warning S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Whisper and Shout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Joe Huggins and Tim Hudgel, 1992
Page Views: 90 total, 1/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Jan 21, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Other than a high first clip, this is a well-protected, short, sport climb located just a few feet left of Lost And Found and Take Five. These are on the left side of blob, on the lower cliff below the Divine Wind area of Blob Rock. This route is number 42 on Blob in the Rolofson guide.

The opening sequence is stout 5.11 and unprotected save stick clipping the first bolt...this felt like the crux to me. Several moderate moves bring you to an interesting layback/overhang sequence that is short but stout and weighs in at solid 5.11. You'll likely use some crack technique through here. It lets up quickly after the crux, unlike its more demanding neighbors.

I found the two routes to the left (Lost And Found & Take Five) to be more continuous and enjoyable, but this route is certainly worth the effort if you're in the area.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts, and a chain anchor. The first bolt is quite high,and the crux, in my opinion, is right off the deck, so stick-clipping the first bolt is a very good idea. Falling here, though certainly not fatal, could result in a nasty sprained znkle (or worse) for a short, little sport route...

Photos

J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11c/d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11c/d
I would have to disagree with Tony about climbing this without the first bolt clipped, especially if you are short. If you blow that section -- which is one of the cruxes of the route -- your ankles would eat a pretty big sh*t sandwich. Moreover, I agree with the Mr. Huggins that the bolt placement is probably in the ideal spot as a bolt any lower would be pretty pointless given the climbing in that section. Just preclip it and forget about it.

I guess the climbing on this has a couple nice moves, but the bottom is sharp and painful and the top the upper crux has some awfully janky rock. Apr 29, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
With a spot, the first clip is not a big issue. It's reasonable. This is a pretty good route for as short as it is and would be a good short project, because the moves are not obvious but not that hard in reality. 4-star moves on a 1-star length climb. May 26, 2011
I [definitely] agree, the bolts are a wee bit close together higher up on the climb. Seems unlikely a 5.12 climber would be scared at that point. When I clipped the bolt at the beginning of the upper crux, the one below was above my waist. (!)

As to the first bolt: certainly reasonable enough, Joe, and it doesn't take a very long stick to clip it. I do think the first bolt even a couple/few feet lower would be clippable sans stick from the ground and still provide the necessary pro to do the first crux sequence. But, it makes little difference in the end. Its a sport route...

I tried to psych myself up to do the opening without gear, to just climb up and clip the bolt, and after a few false starts decided against it. I'm glad I did...the moves are very tenuous. Jan 24, 2004
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
Fred seems surprised at the need to stickclip the first bolt. We decided that this was the way to do it, as the crux is right off the ground; a lower bolt didn't make sense to us. Also, I was told by Mark Rolofson that he had added a bolt between our second and third bolts because some "5.12 climbers had gotten really scared". Imagine that, scary climbing!So I went up to check out his bolt; it seems to me that he placed it in the middle of a move(which isn't particularly hard). I didn't chop the bolt, despite some advice to the contrary, as I don't want to be accused of scaring helpless 5.12 climbers. Jan 24, 2004
Oops. The last paragraph should read "I found the two routes to the RIGHT (Lost And Found & Take Five) ..." Jan 22, 2004