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Routes in Little Blob

Lost and Found S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slow Death T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Take Five S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Two Minute Warning S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Whisper and Shout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport
FA: Tod Anderson, 1997
Page Views: 603 total, 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 10, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Lost and Found can be found on the tier below and a bit West of the Radlands slab.

This route chases the line of bolts immediately left of the arete and "Take Five". A thin move gains a short slab and largely moderate climbing to a stance below a small roof. From here, one can get an overhead clip that protects the crux pull over the roof, and the difficulties will end once established above the roof. The crux pull seemed hard and a bit inobvious. While a long ape index may be useful, good powerful crimp and pinch strength might be just as vital.

Lost and Found is a fun route, well-protected, powerful, and well worth the effort. Double the length and it would get three stars.

Protection

Seven draws, something for the cold shut anchors at the top, and a short rope. These cold shuts were still in good shape.

Photos

I was just on this route today. I hadn't climbed it since 2009. I've climbed it several times since 2000. I didn't see any new bolts. The hole left of 5th bolt was there before Tod bolted this climb. It's the reason he named it Lost & Found.
Dan Hare had drilled some holes, years before but never returned to bolt the route. This was something Dan did often. There are empty holes on Vasodilator past the 7th bolt. He drilled them 2 years before I established that route. He didn't place one bolt, not even the anchor.
This is a fun route with a burly crux. There is a sidepull pinch at the base of the corner for the right hand that allows you to reach the flat edge on the arete with the left hand. The crux is definitely the 6th bolt getting into a lieback in the corner.
I was quite baffled by Jason's & J. Albers comments. The rope runs fine if you climb the intended line which moves into the corner right of the arete. I understand that you climbed the crux on the face left of the arête. This must be a bit harder & not bolted to climb this way. I did see the holds out left. Try the intended try. Dec 19, 2015
Jason Haas
5.12a
Jason Haas  
5.12a
J. Albers that's really interesting as it seems you and your partner and me and my partner had opposite interpretations/experiences with it. I'm curious - how do you clip that bolt? For me, I reach up to that flat jug on the arete with my right. I have to then switch hands to clip the bolt but then switch hands back again so that I can grab the small edge with my left and then up again with the right to pinch the arete. It felt like a lot of unnecessary movements compared to how it was originally bolted and also forces the rope into the crack above (which is why we thought the bolt was placed around to the left originally). Do you just do a left hand on the flat jug and then go right hand all the way up to pinch the arete without the lefthand edge? I could see if your feet are further right, as in around the arete, the rope wouldn't really bother you at all. For me, I'm much more left with my legs and body position overall, as I'm kind of tall and the way facing right felt like it was going to be too scrunchy for me (I didn't touch anything right of the arete). Because of that, when I highstepped up onto the flat jug, I had to keep trying to kick the rope out of the way so I didn't step on it.

On the unrelated statement of quality - I agree it's a good route and climbs much better than it looks from the ground. Apr 29, 2015
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
^^^
Funny you should comment on this, Jason, because I climbed this a few days ago and was going to comment on how my partner and I appreciated the location of the new bolts. To be clear, I never climbed the route pre-update, but from the looks of the old bolt hole location under the roof, my partner and I both concluded that this bolt was probably moved to the right because the location of the old bolt caused the rope to run over the sharp arete edge. In contrast, the new placements leave the rope running in a smooth line that leaves the rope running out to the right away from the arete edge when the rope comes taut.

Don't get me wrong, Jason, I hear what you are saying about the rope running over the hold on the arete because of the bolt that is located on the right-facing corner, but compared with the previous situation where the rope was running across the very sharp arete, this seems like a pretty minor concern. Moreover I found it pretty very easy to scoop my hand underneath the rope to grab the pinch, no big deal. Moreover I think that clipping both of the crux bolts is pretty easy as it is currently step up for a reasonable range of climbers (my partner and I range from 5'8" to 5'11").

As far as the route goes, I was really pleasantly surprised at its quality. It packs some pretty fun climbing into a relatively short section of stone. Good stuff. Apr 29, 2015
Jason Haas
5.12a
Jason Haas  
5.12a
Thank you to whomever updated the crux sixth bolt. I truly mean that. Bolts need updating, so thank you for taking time away from your own personal climbing to do a community service that benefits everyone. However, if you are not going to reuse the same hole, please climb the route and notice where the newly intended bolt will be and how that effects the rope. The "new" clip is now a lot more awkward, and the subsequent sequence is annoying with the rope running over the holds you want to use. Where the bolt was located before avoided these problems - it was set up for better clipping, and the rope didn't interfere with the climbing. You also didn't patch the hole. I guess the silver lining/benefit to that is that we can still reuse the old hole and pull/patch your new replacement eventually, thus eventually fixing this situation altogether. While in general moving a bolt slightly is not a big deal (and sometimes the best thing to do), I think this time it was a big detractor for the above reasons (especially when you take it around the other side of an arete like that). Apr 29, 2015
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
Spoiler alert-

It's helpful to clip the 6th draw (on the left face of the little corner) with just a biner, instead of a quickdraw. Nov 18, 2013