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Routes in The Shakespearean Theatre & Revolution Buttress
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Butterfly McQueens' Birthday TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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In a Pickle T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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It's Greek to Me T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jamuary T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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King Fear T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lives of Quiet Desperation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 R |
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Mind Meld S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Much Ado About Bolting S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Revolution, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Richard, The Turd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shakespur S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Taming of The Shoe, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Two Hangdogs of Verona, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Unknown (Hanson et. al?) |
| Page Views: | 699 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Mottinger on Dec 27, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
This steep crack, to the immediate right of Butterfly McQueens' Birthday provides a long crack with several short crux sections between good to decent rests. Although it is flared, it has enough non-flared placements to protect it well with nuts and fingers to hand-sized cams. One bouldery move leads to a good ledge where the fun begins, go up the crack using jams and face holds and cobbles. The crux comes 3/4 of the way up and involves pulling over a roof using face holds while reaching for jams above. This is one of the better trad lines I've been on at Castlewood--steep climbing up a continuous crack that offers good pro.
Note: The line I marked Jamuary in the beta photo is really Butterfly McQueens' Birthday, Jamuary is the obvious, marked crack below and right of the Jamuary label in the pic.
Note: The line I marked Jamuary in the beta photo is really Butterfly McQueens' Birthday, Jamuary is the obvious, marked crack below and right of the Jamuary label in the pic.
Protection
Standard rack up to #2 Friend. Offsets could help but are not necessary. Bring a really long sling or extra rope to anchor this climb. You might be able to anchor off The Revolution's cold shuts, but these are not accesible from the top.
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