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Routes in Frisky Cliff

Borg, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Con Gaz S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Double Impact S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Orb, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pesky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rumors of Glory S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sin Gaz S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinopia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Van Damage S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Peter Beal
Page Views: 4,860 total, 28/month
Shared By: Jim Redo on Sep 7, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Sinopia is the second route from the left. This route looks Waaay easier than it is.

Stick clip the first bolt, because it looks 5.7...but it's not. Climb past three bolts including the first up a corner which deposits you on a ledge. Sit, lay down, have lunch, whatever, but rest before tackling the headwall. Clip two bolts off the ledge and tackle the first crux. Either a big throw if you're tall or pimpin' small grips if not. Shake out and head left to the next crux, technical climbing brings you to the lip and final clip. Don't fall here. There is a kind of a funky last move getting established on the slab. This is a good route.

Protection

8-9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
I did this route in October of 2014 in the cold. Such a wonderful, finicky journey. Absolutely worth the trek up here. Good job, Peter Beal! It's hard for me to rate this, as I'm not a good 'granite rock climber', but it seemed like it could be 5.13a? Jul 19, 2015
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
  5.13a
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
  5.13a
My take on the rating.
If you are 5'10" or taller, 5.12c/d, unless at 5'10" you have negative ape index.
If you are under 5'10", 5.13a.
It's that simple, IMHO.

Great moves, 4 stars out of 5! Mar 3, 2015
ChanVan Schaack
  5.12c
ChanVan Schaack  
  5.12c
I agree that it is definitely harder than it looks, but still not 13a. Fun route, though. Oct 22, 2012
Pinklebear
  5.13a
Pinklebear  
  5.13a
And the direct left start on the Z-seams would be "Con Gaz," or at least that's what we were calling it, but we never could do it. V-double-digit something or other, open project, start with the first bolt stick-clipped, have at it, don't trash your right shoulder.... Sep 20, 2012
That is Sin Gaz. 12c-ish? Kind of fun but not as good as Sinopia. Sep 20, 2012
Eric Carlos
Chattanooga, TN
Eric Carlos   Chattanooga, TN
There is also a line that shares the first crux and then, from the jug, goes right through another crux and up to the slab. Sep 19, 2012
Kelly P
The Bubble, CO
Kelly P   The Bubble, CO
We were up here today...anyone know what the thin recently bolted face start to the immediate left of the Sinopia start is? It is quite thin, sharp and devious.... Mar 31, 2012
Mark Rolofson
  5.13a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.13a
Great route for a summer morning. The trick for me was figuring out the move off the sloping shelf past the 5th bolt. There are several ways to do this lunge move, but only one worked for me. A second crux past 6th bolt was powerful but more obvious. Still more 5.12 above. This climb has a total of four 5.12 section in a row. The 5.11d dihedral start can feel pretty burly too. Jan 11, 2012
I had left draws and a cam on Sinopia at the end of December '07, I noticed recently that they are gone and different draws in place. If anyone has my gear, I would love to get it back.
Cheers May 2, 2008