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Routes in Frisky Cliff

Borg, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Con Gaz S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Double Impact S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Orb, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pesky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rumors of Glory S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sin Gaz S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinopia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Van Damage S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ben Moon FFA Guthrie Equipped
Page Views: 2,207 total, 14/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This very bouldery route traverses out the massive overhang on the right side of the Frisky Cliff. A stout first dyno and swing, then heelhooks and crimps to a short corner and tricky slab. This route had its 15 minutes of fame when Ben Moon of the UK was photographed for Climbing Magazine in a snowstorm on this route. Some have argued for a harder grade but for today's bouldering mutants this may prove a pleasant morning's outing. Morning shade, well worth the hike.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

I fell and hung on all the bolts in 2016, and they're fine.

Great route. A tricky opening jump into sustained roof climbing that sticks with you all the way until you rock onto the slab. Nov 29, 2016
I got on this thing today: the first bolt is oldschool-sketch and then as I leaned out to try the crux moves I looked at the 2nd bolt and the nut on the bolt had nearly unwound itself. I tried to get it as tight as possible. Just an FYI, take a look to see if the hanger is well secured before going for the dyno crux, it may be good for your longevity. Dope bouldery opening sequence. The first 3 draws are in place at this time. Aug 19, 2009
Scott Hahn  
 
I replaced the hanger today. Hopefully this one lasts longer than the last. Jun 29, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
There's a number 2 RP placement instead. As the retro-trad wave continues, look for more missing bolts/hangers....

Seriously, the first bolt should be a glue-in since the leverage it gets is intense and virtually any hanger is eventually pried off. That's my guess. I noticed the problem when I did the route way back when and posted accordingly in 2004. May 4, 2008
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
As of 5/3/08 the hanger for first bolt on the overhang is missing again. What's the deal? May 3, 2008
This climb has one [redeeming] quality - it's steep. otherwise, there is no real line (you could just as well go up and over the roof at any point) and it was blasted to existence from the aqueduct. The fact that it got any press is attributable to the popularity of Moon at the time. There were likely hundreds of FAs at the time that should have been reported in lieu. Sep 13, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
This would be a good candidate for a glue-in since it takes a lot of hard pulling from falling at the start. Sep 10, 2004
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
The externally threaded bolt stud is there, but no hanger or nut. Sep 9, 2004
Is the first bolt still missing? Sep 9, 2004