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Frisky Cliff Rock Climbing
Routes in Frisky Cliff
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Borg, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Brodey’s Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Code Red S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Con Gaz S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Double Impact S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Last Tango T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lola’s Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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McDavid Bro Sesh (aka Bro Sesh), The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Orb, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pesky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rumors of Glory S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sin Gaz S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sinopia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Trouble and Strife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Van Damage S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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| Elevation: | 8,000 ft | 2,438 m |
| GPS: |
39.97727, -105.45706 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 34,376 total · 131/month | |
| Shared By: | Jimmie Redo on Oct 23, 2003 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, &, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Details
On 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened. Eagle Rock is closed.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This cliff offers a variety of sport climbs and some old Dan Hare gear route. Morning/early afternoon shade gives good sending temps to these 5.13- and up sport routes. It is probably too cold in winter, so the best time to climb here is spring, summer, or fall.
L->R these may be:
A1. Double Impact, 13, alternate start, 1p, 60', bolts.
A2. Van Damage, 13-, 1p, 45', bolts.
B. The Orb, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts.
CB. The McDavid Bro Sesh (aka Bro Sesh), 13, 1p, 45', bolts.
D. Con Gaz, 13, 1p, 60', bolts.
E1. Sinopia, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E2. Sin Gaz, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
F? Last Tango, 10, 1p, 45', gear.
G? Frisky, 10-, 1p, gear.
H? Code Red, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. The Borg, 13, 1p, 70', bolts.
J. Rumors of Glory, 13, 1p, bolts.
K. Pesky, 7, 1p, 100', bolts.
L1. Lola’s Route, 10, 1p, 100', gear.
L2. Brodey’s Route, 11-, 1p, 60', gear.
Getting There
I always park at "Castle Rock" (10-11 miles up the canyon). An alternative is to park at the chipped park,...er excuse me the Sport Park. Either way it's probably best to warm up at either crag. To approach the crag from the Castle, cross the little bridge just downriver from Country Club Crack. Once across follow a faint trail up past the cliff on your left (the Broken Cliff, I believe) to a flat aqueduct trail. Head west around the corner for about .5 miles. A pleasent hike with great views of the Castle. You will also pass the "Mountain Rose" cliff once on the aqueduct trail. Don't confuse these slabs with the Frisky Cliff routes. Steep bolted routes on your left is the big indication that you have reached your destination.
Classic Climbing Routes at Frisky Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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