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Frisky Cliff Rock Climbing
Routes in Frisky Cliff
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Borg, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Con Gaz S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Double Impact S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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McDavid Bro Sesh (aka Bro Sesh), The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Orb, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pesky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rumors of Glory S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sin Gaz S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sinopia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Van Damage S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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| Elevation: | 8,000 ft |
| GPS: | 39.978, -105.454 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 10,858 total · 60/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Redo on Oct 23, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: all Boulder Canyon closures have been lifted!
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
This cliff offers four sport climbs and one old Dan Hare gear route. Morning/early afternoon shade gives good sending temps to these 5.13- and up sport routes. Probably too cold in winter so the best time to climb here is spring, summer, or fall.
L->R these may be:
A1. Double Impact, 13, alternate start, 1p, 60', bolts.
A2. Van Damage, 13-, 1p, 45', bolts.
B. The Orb, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts.
CB. The McDavid Bro Sesh (aka Bro Sesh), 13, 1p, 45', bolts.
D. Con Gaz, 13, 1p, 60', bolts.
E1. Sinopia, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E2. Sin Gaz, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
F Last Tango, 10, 1p, gear.
G. Frisky, 10-, 1p, gear.
H. The Borg, 13, 1p, 70', bolts.
I. Rumors of Glory, 13, 1p, bolts.
J. Pesky, 7, 1p, 100', bolts.
L->R these may be:
A1. Double Impact, 13, alternate start, 1p, 60', bolts.
A2. Van Damage, 13-, 1p, 45', bolts.
B. The Orb, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts.
CB. The McDavid Bro Sesh (aka Bro Sesh), 13, 1p, 45', bolts.
D. Con Gaz, 13, 1p, 60', bolts.
E1. Sinopia, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E2. Sin Gaz, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
F Last Tango, 10, 1p, gear.
G. Frisky, 10-, 1p, gear.
H. The Borg, 13, 1p, 70', bolts.
I. Rumors of Glory, 13, 1p, bolts.
J. Pesky, 7, 1p, 100', bolts.
Getting There
I always park at "Castle Rock" (10-11 miles up the canyon). An alternative is to park at the chipped park,...er excuse me the Sport Park. Either way it's probably best to warm up at either crag. To approach the crag from the Castle, cross the little bridge just downriver from Country Club Crack. Once across follow a faint trail up past the cliff on your left (the Broken Cliff, I believe) to a flat aqueduct trail. Head west around the corner for about .5 miles. A pleasent hike with great views of the Castle. You will also pass the "Mountain Rose" cliff once on the aqueduct trail. Don't confuse these slabs with the Frisky Cliff routes. Steep bolted routes on your left is the big indication that you have reached your destination.
Classic Climbing Routes at Frisky Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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