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Routes in Frisky Cliff

Borg, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Con Gaz S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Double Impact S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
McDavid Bro Sesh (aka Bro Sesh), The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Orb, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pesky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rumors of Glory S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sin Gaz S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinopia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Van Damage S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This cliff offers four sport climbs and one old Dan Hare gear route. Morning/early afternoon shade gives good sending temps to these 5.13- and up sport routes. Probably too cold in winter so the best time to climb here is spring, summer, or fall.

L->R these may be:

A1. Double Impact, 13, alternate start, 1p, 60', bolts.
A2. Van Damage, 13-, 1p, 45', bolts.
B. The Orb, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts.
CB. The McDavid Bro Sesh (aka Bro Sesh), 13, 1p, 45', bolts.
D. Con Gaz, 13, 1p, 60', bolts.
E1. Sinopia, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E2. Sin Gaz, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
F Last Tango, 10, 1p, gear.
G. Frisky, 10-, 1p, gear.
H. The Borg, 13, 1p, 70', bolts.
I. Rumors of Glory, 13, 1p, bolts.
J. Pesky, 7, 1p, 100', bolts.

Getting There

I always park at "Castle Rock" (10-11 miles up the canyon). An alternative is to park at the chipped park,...er excuse me the Sport Park. Either way it's probably best to warm up at either crag. To approach the crag from the Castle, cross the little bridge just downriver from Country Club Crack. Once across follow a faint trail up past the cliff on your left (the Broken Cliff, I believe) to a flat aqueduct trail. Head west around the corner for about .5 miles. A pleasent hike with great views of the Castle. You will also pass the "Mountain Rose" cliff once on the aqueduct trail. Don't confuse these slabs with the Frisky Cliff routes. Steep bolted routes on your left is the big indication that you have reached your destination.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Frisky Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 11
Sin Gaz
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 31
Sinopia
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 9
Van Damage
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 9
The Orb
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Double Impact
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sin Gaz
 11
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Sinopia
 31
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Van Damage
 9
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
The Orb
 9
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Double Impact
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Frisky Cliff »

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