Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Peter Beal
Page Views: 5,510 total · 29/month
Shared By: Jim Redo on Sep 2, 2003 with improvements by Tim P
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details


This was the farthest left route on the cliff. Hike up a dead end gully-chasm to reach the route. It has very powerful climbing up the gently overhanging wall with surprisingly bad grips. The holds do get better after the third bolt and on the dog does not seem that hard (compared to the climbing below), but you do carry the pump to the anchors. A hold broke in the middle of the crux solidifying the grade, but the route has since been redpointed.... Oh and don't worry you won't hit the wall behind you if you fall.

This has great movement but is a little crumbly, so only two stars. A short route, so boulderers should fare well.


5-6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
Great route; thanks Peter! Aug 30, 2004
Matt Battaglia
Matt Battaglia  
Beta: a left knee pad allows you to get a no hands rest before the crux and then use the left knee pad again as you make a left hand move up to the funky 1.5 finger sidepull/pocket. Stellar route. Super-technotronic foot work. Aug 19, 2009
Jon W
Longmont Colorado
Jon W   Longmont Colorado
There are new bolts to the right of the start of The Orb, creating a "direct start" for the route. It links into The Orb at the 3rd bolt. Anyone know what this is? Grade? Sep 21, 2015
Here's a video of Lynn Hill and Fred Knapp on the route: youtu.be/f2TsTRu0BNc. Mar 5, 2019