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Routes in Frisky Cliff

Borg, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Con Gaz S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Double Impact S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Orb, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pesky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rumors of Glory S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sin Gaz S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinopia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Van Damage S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Peter Beal
Page Views: 3,144 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jim Redo on Sep 2, 2003 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This was the farthest left route on the cliff. Hike up a dead end gully-chasm to reach the route. It has very powerful climbing up the gently overhanging wall with surprisingly bad grips. The holds do get better after the third bolt and on the dog does not seem that hard (compared to the climbing below), but you do carry the pump to the anchors. A hold broke in the middle of the crux solidifying the grade, but the route has since been redpointed.... Oh and don't worry you won't hit the wall behind you if you fall.

This has great movement but is a little crumbly, so only two stars. A short route, so boulderers should fare well.

Protection

5-6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Jon W
Longmont Colorado
Jon W   Longmont Colorado
There are new bolts to the right of the start of The Orb, creating a "direct start" for the route. It links into The Orb at the 3rd bolt. Anyone know what this is? Grade? Sep 21, 2015
Matt Battaglia
  5.13b
Matt Battaglia  
  5.13b
Beta: a left knee pad allows you to get a no hands rest before the crux and then use the left knee pad again as you make a left hand move up to the funky 1.5 finger sidepull/pocket. Stellar route. Super-technotronic foot work. Aug 19, 2009
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
 
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
 
Great route; thanks Peter! Aug 30, 2004