Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Lower Tier

Beer Dog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Botonga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brace for Impact T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Canine Corner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free at Last T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Git 'Er Done S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hound's Tooth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leave No Trace T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Like a Wonk T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
March Madness S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Munchkin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quick Work S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Release the Kraken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tinnitus S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Where's Ron S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonky T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bill Morris and Pebby Johns, fall 2001
Page Views: 344 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


31 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is not marked in Rossiter's Bihedral section of the Boulder Canyon book and is not apparently described on this site yet. This seemed to be the buttress 'below' route #1 in Rossiter's topo. From the normal approach to the Bihedral, just before the scrambling starts off of the trail, take a sharp left and go west to a short buttress with several bolted routes on it. This is the second bolted route from the right, starting about 15' left of Leave No Trace. See ?beta photo?. We found this route after the westward walk-off from the Bihedral route.

The route is safely bolted, but without long slings, the rope runs funny, particularly between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (or was it 1st and 2nd) where the rope goes sharply left over a dark sharp corner/flake. Using 2' sling on the lower and upper kept this a little better. It's not a bad climb, there's just not much to it. Rap from the rings to keep from abusing your rope; don't lower off.

Does anyone know the history of this route?

Addendum: There is a 2nd pitch with 3 bolts, a #1 Camalot & orange Alien can be useful, 5.8, 70', 2-bolt anchor. See Like a Wonk.

Protection

A set of 4 draws + some for the anchor.
OriginalMikeJohnson
Denver
  5.8
OriginalMikeJohnson   Denver
  5.8
This is a really quick and easy climb. If you're new to the grade, do this climb. If you're not new to the grade, it's an okay warm-up but nothing special given the other routes in the area. Feb 20, 2017
History of "The Unknown sport climb" on the lower tier in Boulder Canyon: Was putup Pebby Johns and myself in the Fall of 2001. There used to be a sizable rock on the lower part that formed a nice overhang but that fell off a few years back. It was originally protected there with a couple wires.
I placed the rap rings to the right because we we also set it up so one could top rope the route to the right (Leave no Trace) which I think Moe Hershoff and others placed some bolts later on. We called the Unknown sport route "Botonga" and the other left unnamed at the time after toproping it and thinking it to be around 11a-11b. -Bill Morris Jun 10, 2009
pfwein
Boulder, CO
  5.9
pfwein   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Not worth too much by itself, but had a decent move or two and is a nice extra pitch when doing Calling All Trad Climbers etc. May 8, 2006