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Routes in The Lower Tier

Beer Dog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Botonga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brace for Impact T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Canine Corner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free at Last T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Git 'Er Done S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hound's Tooth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leave No Trace T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Like a Wonk T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
March Madness S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Munchkin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quick Work S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Release the Kraken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tinnitus S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Where's Ron S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonky T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Greg Hand, Kent Lugbill & Dan Brockway, 4/10/2007
Page Views: 467 total · 3/month
Shared By: Greg Hand on Apr 17, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Edit]

Two new first-pitch variations added 4/18/2007.

Pitch 1a: Begin just left of Botonga, solo up easy rock and climb past 3 bolts (5.9) in a dihedral to a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 1b: Climb the line just left of pitch 1a following 3 bolts (5.9) to a new 2-bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. You may need to temporarily clip the anchor to the right to get to the upper anchor.

These two separate new anchors eliminate the rope shredding problem.

Pitch 2: Move right past the anchor for Botonga and wonk your way straight up placing the gear until the bolts are reached. The crux (5.8) is the short traverse right at the 2nd bolt.

Location [Edit]

Begins just left of Botonga.

Protection [Edit]

0.75 Camalot, red, yellow, green Aliens.
2-bolt anchors atop each pitch.

Photos

rob bauer
Golden, CO
  5.9+
rob bauer   Golden, CO
  5.9+
With belly to the bolts, the left hand variation felt fairly hard (.10c?) to me; I'm 5'8" and I hung, [but avoided the crack to the left]. I was expecting easier.... Oct 2, 2009
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
 
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
 
I removed a loose flake (18 inch diameter) from the left variation today. It can be seen in the picture next to the climbers left foot. It left a big hold and the move at the 2nd bolt is easier now. I was actually shocked how hollow it sounded. The FA party was remiss in not cleaning it. OH WAIT! That's me! Sorry. I also put in separate anchors for the two variations. This eliminates the rope shredding problem. Jan 13, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
We combined the two pitches, and it worked out well. There was not much rope drag. It saves some time. Dec 3, 2014

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