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Routes in The Lower Tier

Beer Dog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Botonga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brace for Impact T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Canine Corner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free at Last T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Git 'Er Done S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hound's Tooth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leave No Trace T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Like a Wonk T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
March Madness S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Munchkin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quick Work S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Release the Kraken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tinnitus S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Where's Ron S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonky T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Bruno Haché , Ron Olsen, and Greg Hand, 4/29/07.
Page Views: 150 total · 1/month
Shared By: Bruno Hache on Apr 29, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route climbs the prominent V-dihedral high on the wall, 20 feet right of Leave No Trace.

Start from the trail, directly below the dihedral, and just left of a cedar tree that's about 50 feet above the trail. Climb up slabby rock steps, placing gear and passing one bolt, to the base of the steep dihedral. The climbing in this initial section is mostly easy, with perhaps one 5.6-5.7 move along the way. There are some runouts on easy ground getting to the crux dihedral.

Clip a bolt on the left wall of the dihedral and prepare for "the business". The third bolt (second bolt in the dihedral) is the crux. Move to your right on the face to avoid the sand bag in the corner on the left. High-quality technical moves with a counter-intuitive "down-move" brings you to a key sharp quartzite intrusion. The top dihedral is worth 3.5 stars but is downrated due to the easy start.

Lower from an anchor at the top of the dihedral (70 m rope required). There is no stance at this anchor; it is meant for lowering only. It might be possible to lower with a 60m rope if you scramble up to a shelf about 20' above the trail, and belay from here.

If you only have a 60m rope and want to belay from the top, continue up another 20 feet to the anchor atop the second pitch of Like a Wonk. Belay from here on a decent ledge. From this higher anchor, two rappels will get you back down. Do the first rappel to the anchor on Botonga/Leave No Trace. From here, rappel to the ground.

Location

This route starts about 20 feet right of Leave No Trace and just left of a big cedar tree that's about 50 feet above the trail. The objective is the prominent V-dihedral above and left of the cedar tree.

Protection

BEWARE: A 70 m ROPE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

Green Camalot (0.75), bolt, Grey Camalot (0.4), Blue Camalot (0.3), 3 bolts, two-bolt top anchor.
Long runner at the last gear placement is advisable, or unclip the last gear placement after clipping the left-wall second bolt.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
80' of "blah" to 25' of very good climbing with a technical crux. I didn't do it the way it is described here, and neither did Seth, nor Jerry, and none of us did it quite the same. I also busted off a foothold... but not one anyone else used, apparently.
Anyway, how do you average this one out? Maybe 2 stars? Jul 26, 2009
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Bruno,
Good job. I knew it would be harder than my current state of devolution (I play golf 7 days a week). I tried to bring in my own hired gun, but never got one in time. I was there twice on rappel and it was an ordeal to clean with the updrafts. Opps, gotta go, time to hit the links! May 2, 2007
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
 
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
 
Greg and Ron,
You guys are funny about the cleaning and stuff.
But I agree with Ron, cleaners should be part of the first ascent party.
Cleaning is the most arduous task that a route-setter has to cope with! :)
And the cleaning you had done made our job much easier on Sunday, that's for damn sure! :)

You are soooo welcome Greg as part of the first ascent party!
After all, you also did some of the exploration to find this line! :)
Good job Greg!
Team spirit at its best!
Bruno May 2, 2007
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Ron, just razzin you. It was too hard for me. I am amazed it went that easy. Apr 30, 2007
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Hey, don't I get any credit for the 2 days of cleaning I did on the route?? Apr 30, 2007