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Routes in Iron John/Little Tree area

Chopping Block T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Highway Blues S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ironjohn S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Tree TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wind Turbine S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Allen Simons, Ned Sparks
Page Views: 1,174 total, 6/month
Shared By: allen simons on Nov 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

This route is about 200 yards upstream from the bridge (to the West). Stay on the left side of the bolts and climb straight up. After the first bolt, there is a nice place to stand, but then the fun begins. Things keep getting thinner until you get past the fourth bolt. After cliping the fifth bolt (with the ring), you can come down or continue up the crack to the top. If you stay right of the bolts, you can lay back the entire route at about 5.7, or just clip the first bolt if you choose.

Protection

5 bolts to a small crack, where a small cam works great.

Photos

allen simons  
 
Just remember, the Eiger North Face is a piece of choss as well, held together by ice. It's just that The Eiger is 6000 feet tall and in an awesome setting. As for Ironjohn, it's less chossy than it was in 1995 when I bolted it. Aug 1, 2011
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
This is the most awkward, insanely envisioned, least natural line I've ever clipped. Heinous stances, desperate, off-balance feet. Can't tell for the life of me whether to climb right side or what. And choss-O-my-gosh! Then there's the matter of the one-rap-bolt non-anchor or the crack-to-nowhere above...this thing is a mess.

And it's entirely delightful. Would do it again, any day. Couldn't even tell you exactly why; but I like it. Keep up the vision, Simons, and keep bolting.

As for this mystery "5.7" layback thing on the right: Don't know anything about it. My partner felt that staying left was a clipping nightmare, so I sent it right, edging desperately up the right face/arete. Sweetness at 10+.

Send well and watch for traffic. Jul 18, 2011
allen simons  
 
After the hard ten below some will not put the protection in the crack as it is significantly easier. It will take a #2 Camalot if one does not want the runout. Funny you gave it 3 stars. I have taken a lot of grief in the past for bolting this "chossy" route, but, like you I find it a very fun short route. And for the record, someone else posted this a long time ago under "Adopt a road" under Big Thompson Canyon, but they are one in the same. See the other comments there, Al. Jun 23, 2009
allen simons  
 
John, your comment wasn't there a second ago. I went away to post a comment and yours materialized. Don't know if you care or not but if you want to assign me as the "poster" I could edit some information about the route. I and Ned sparks are the F.A.'s. Allen May 2, 2009
allen simons  
 
Shane, thanks for the comment. Not sure how you got attached to it either. Funny, there hasn't been a comment attached to this route since 2003. This route actually sees a lot of ascents due to its proximity to Loveland and to the road. After years of seeing the "pile of crap" comment, I have to say that this route regardless of the type of choss it is or isn't, is a solid 5.10 climb with several challenging cruxes. I climb it about once a year and still enjoy the moves. Allen May 2, 2009
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
Shane,

I reassigned it to anonymous.

Cheers

john May 2, 2009
Shane Neal
Colorado Springs, CO.
 
Shane Neal   Colorado Springs, CO.
 
For the record- I didn't submit this- not sure how I got credit. Anyhow, I'd climb it- every route doesn't have to be a perfect world class outing. It looks fun, and I relate to having routes close to home. May 2, 2009
Whoa, this route big. It's SO big.... Aug 12, 2003
Well, I'm not sure about the comments. Let's see, it isn't called Adopt a Road, its name is Ironjohn put up by me, Allen Simons in 1995. Pile of crap, yes, probably. It was my second attempt at a bolted route. It is fun though and was put up just to have a place close to Loveland to climb. I welcome any comments. allen Jun 1, 2003
I'll never be better...after looking at that route I was left scarred for life!!! Mar 4, 2003
Definitely not a mecca worth paying hommage to, these routes are the closest sport routes to my house and fun to do when I have a spare hour to kill. Especially when Horsetooth bouldering access is limited. Sorry it wasn't good enough for you there partner...I hope you're all better now. Mar 3, 2003
Wow...what a pile of crap. Feb 23, 2003