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Ironjohn
5.10d,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2 from 9
votes
FA: Allen Simons, Ned Sparks
Colorado
> Estes Park Valley
> Big Thompson Ca…
> Beige Tube Area…
> Iron John/Little Tree…
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023. Per
JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per
Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This route is about 200 yards upstream from the bridge (to the West). Stay on the left side of the bolts and climb straight up. After the first bolt, there is a nice place to stand, but then the fun begins. Things keep getting thinner until you get past the fourth bolt. After cliping the fifth bolt (with the ring), you can come down or continue up the crack to the top. If you stay right of the bolts, you can lay back the entire route at about 5.7, or just clip the first bolt if you choose.
Protection
5 bolts to a small crack, where a small cam works great.
[Hide Photo] Iron John with Santa's Little Helpers 30 yards west.
[Hide Photo] Mr. Wix passing the crux, onto the runout 5.8 crack.
[Hide Photo] Getting ready to race to the top before the snow gets too deep!
Altmünster, Oberosterreich,…
Altmünster, Oberosterreich,…
Colorado Springs, CO.
Littleton, CO
I reassigned it to anonymous.
Cheers
john May 2, 2009
Was Estes Park, now homeless
And it's entirely delightful. Would do it again, any day. Couldn't even tell you exactly why; but I like it. Keep up the vision, Simons, and keep bolting.
As for this mystery "5.7" layback thing on the right: Don't know anything about it. My partner felt that staying left was a clipping nightmare, so I sent it right, edging desperately up the right face/arete. Sweetness at 10+.
Send well and watch for traffic. Jul 18, 2011