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Routes in Tangen Towers

DC Boy T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
East Face/Upper Tangen Tower T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hop, Skip, & Jump T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hoppy Birthday T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In Focus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pictureman Crack/Lower Tangen Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face Right/Lower Tangen Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Route/Lower Tangen Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stay Focused T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tangen Tunnel route T
Thumper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unnamed Hueco 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zacchaeus T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: George Bell and Warren Teissier, 1/8/2003
Page Views: 90 total, 0/month
Shared By: George Bell on Jan 7, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This short crack may well have been climbed previously but it has not been reported anywhere. The Tangen Towers are named after Ed Tangen (1873-1951), Boulder historian who took several thousand photos of the Boulder area. He was known as "The Pictureman".

This crack lies on the southwest side of the Lower Tangen Tower, it lies between the regular route and the rap off. There are actually two cracks, this is the left and easier of the two (the other being "In Focus"). The hardest move is getting off the ground, then enjoy 20' of fun and well protected jamming. This crack is great but too short!

The rest of the climb is easier: continue up and slightly left on a ramp which leads to the summit (5.4 at most). Be sure to place a stopper in the trademark slot, other than this there isn't much pro on the top half of the pitch. Except for this lack of pro at the top this would make an excellent beginner lead. The entire climb is less than 100' long.

From the summit area, move north to find a sling out of sight at the top of the overhanging west face. Do a short rap to reach the ground.

Protection

Light rack to 2.5".

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Decent climb and in keeping with the charicter of this wall- similar to In Focus and Stay Focused.

Refer to my comments on In Focus- same deal here.

Rating seemed right. The climb has a crux first move, then eases up on good jams. It might be a little harder than 5.7, but a spoter, not gear protects that step-up. It will feel relatively easy. May 30, 2003